Andrew Fairlie Restaurant
Food in Scotland
Restaurant Andrew Fairlie
Gleneagles Hotel
Auchterarder
Perthshire
01764 694267
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The name Gleneagles has been synonymous with a luxury lifestyle since the hotel opened in 1924, described at the time as "a Riviera in the Highlands." This grand hotel now offers the ultimate in fine dining with the opening of Andrew Fairlie at Gleneagles.
This gourmet restaurant, open to non-residents as well as hotel guests, is run by the eponymous award-winning young chef who has created a most original menu blending the very best of classic Scottish and French cuisine.
From the moment you step into the "secret" cocktail bar adjoining the restaurant, you know this is going to be a very stylish experience. In my little black lace number, with a touch of diamante jewellery and my partner showing off his new velvet suit and DKNY silk tie, we felt suitably dressed for the occasion, surrounded by a romantic, dark interior design, featuring rather theatrical drapes with a private gallery of contemporary portraits and still life, by Archie Forrest, on the walls.
The elegant young staff, (with shirts courtesy of Mr Pink), greeted us warmly and offered a flute of ice-cold champagne as we perused the leather-bound menu. There is the chef's five course speciality menu degustation, or a la carte, featuring a choice of eight dishes from which to select a starter and/or fish course and then a selection of eight main course dishes. The emphasis is on seafood and fresh local produce, the poetic descriptions so inspiring in themselves it is almost impossible to choose between them.
I opt for grilled scallop and poached oyster salad, which is tender and delicate, beautifully arranged around the plate with a spicy pimento puree sauce. I also sample my partner's ravioli of summer truffle, that rare Rolls Royce of the fungi family, with its rich pungent flavour, softened with an accompanying white bean veloute. We then both selected the home smoked lobster, Andrew Fairlie's renowned signature dish which deserves a Michelin award all by itself.
The empty lobster shells are smoked over Auchentoshan whisky barrels for 12 hours and are then filled with the sliced lobster meat and roasted in a hot oven for about five minutes with melted butter and lime juice. The result is a most unusual but sensational melt in the mouth creation, with a soft smoky aftertaste.
While savouring each course we sipped a smooth, red Burgundy, which added a perfect balance of soft plummy fruits to the delicate flavours of the seafood, herbs and spices.
I then moved on to a thick fillet of arkaig char, a flaky white salmon-style fish, which sat on a large, flat, black cep nest, while my partner selected steamed halibut on a bed of shellfish risotto. In both dishes the fish was perfectly cooked and served with an imaginative combination and contrast of texture and colour.
And to follow? The choice of passion fruit tart, mille feuille, or hot chocolate pudding (a dish specially prepared in 25 minutes), was all too tempting. We decided however to share a platter of French farmhouse cheese, which is flown in each week from a speciality shop in Paris, Jacques Vernier.
The waiter was in his element as he explained where each soft, mild, melting or mature cheese came from, which region, valley or hill the goat or cow grazed on. Served with crisp sesame crackers this was mouthwateringly good and the perfect end to an absolutely fabulous meal.
Andrew Fairlie enjoyed a brilliant apprenticeship, becoming the first recipient of the coveted Roux scholarship, training under the great French chef, Michel Guerard. He worked in Paris at the Hotel de Crillon, the five star Royal Scotsman train and the Ritz in London. He was then invited to become executive chef at One Devonshire Gardens in Glasgow, where he was awarded a Michelin star, which he retained for five years.
He arrives at Gleneagles garlanded with numerous awards for his creativity in the kitchen. To experience dinner at his new restaurant is something very special and the perfect location for a birthday or anniversary, so book now for that important date. Apart from the most exquisite cuisine, supremely prepared and served on Limoges porcelain, it is the Parisian style, personal, friendly service and sheer glamour of the ambience which will ensure you will wish to return to taste it all again.
Complete dinner menu from �55.00 per person
~ Vivien Devlin
(22/11/01)