The Khukuri
The Khukuri
8 West Maitland Street
(By Haymarket Station)
Edinburgh
0131 228 2085/2252
The land of Nepal instantly conjures up images of the majestic Himalayas, fabulous temples, lofty monasteries, colourful indigenous cultures and of course, Everest itself.
Food, however, is not normally something the average diner associates with this breathtaking mountain kingdom. A visit to Edinburgh's Khukuri restaurant, though, will soon change your mind on that score.
On the whole, the Khukuri, named after the famous boomerang shaped Gurkha knife which, legend has it, must draw blood if unsheathed, offers cuisine that is ostensibly Indian in style but when you think about it, a region forever trapped between the great sub-continents of India and China is bound to have some very interesting culinary variations and a number of dishes definitely have an oriental influence.
This is mainly noticeable in the use of spices with the traditionally Indian standards such as cumin and turmeric being edged out by those favoured heavily in Chinese cooking like ginger, garlic and lemon.
And although old favourites like coriander remain to give a familiar "Indian" taste to many dishes, the overall feeling is that a Nepalese meal is in some way "lighter" than a traditional Indian.
For example, starting with the Bhenda Momo, succulent steamed lamb cooked in traditional Nepalese spices served with a Nepali pickle dip (�3.15) will take your taste buds on a journey a few miles further east than the usual poppadom or bhaji choices.
The national dish of Nepal is termed a "Dal Bhat" and generally consists of rice (bhat), thick lentil soup (dal) and curried vegetables or meat (tarkari) usually accompanied by a small amount of pickle (achar) and the Khukuri offers a wide range of variations on this theme.
The Khukuri Raksi Kukhura, chicken marinated in spiced yoghurt with a masala sauce of rum (the national drink is a rum based liquor called Raksi), tomato, peas and coriander (�8.95) caught my eye and stomach but equally interesting was the Solukhumbu Bhena, a popular dish from East Nepal which looks more middle eastern in style with long slices of lamb stuffed with mince-meat and cooked in onions, ginger, garlic, tomato and a blend of spices unique to the Khukuri chef's own taste (�7.95).
Other slight departures from the Indian "norm" are Kukhura Hariyali, chicken cooked in a spicy yoghurt sauce with fresh mint, coriander and green chillies (�7.45) and Gorkhali Korma, marinated lamb or chicken cooked in fresh cream and honey (�7.75) which is slightly European in essence but completely Nepalese when served with the spices, sauces, rice dishes and naan breads popular in the country.
But vegetarians need not despair with a whole range of Nepalese style mushroom, aubergine, spinach, cauliflower, potato and chick pea based curries on offer from just �4.25.
And, of course, the usual tandoori, biryani, seafood and curry choices are also available as well as all the variations of rice dishes and naan breads - and when you add the fact that European meals are also on offer you can see just how exhaustive the menu is and the best way is simply to visit for yourself!
Conveniently situated near Haymarket Station it's far enough out of the centre to be able to walk in off the street - although booking on weekend evenings is essential - but it's still only a five minute walk to Princes Street.
And besides, the food, like the country, is as close to heaven as you'll get.
~ Peter Murphy
(15/11/01)