Ardnamurchan Peninsula
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The Ardnamurchan Peninsula
The main places of interest in this area are to be found on the rugged Ardnamurchan peninsula, the end of which is the most westerly point on the British mainland. The winding A861 runs west from Strontian along the north shore of Loch Sunart to Salen, where the single-track B8007 branches west and runs all the way out to the tip of the peninsula. The A861 meanwhile turns north to Acharacle. There's accommodation at Salen in the Salen Hotel, Tel. 431661, salenhotel@aol.com, where you can also get food (cheap to mid-range) and information on local walks. A mile or so east of Salen, at Resipole, you can pitch a tent at the Resipole Farm Caravan Park, Tel. 431235. There's also a restaurant and bar on site.
Phone code: +44 (0)1972
Glenborrodale
The first settlement you reach heading west out to Ardnamurchan Point is Glenborrodale. Before you reach the tiny hamlet look out on the left for the castellated late-Victorian towers of Glenborrodale Castle, once the property of a certain Jesse Boot, who founded a chain of chemist shops which you may have heard of.
Just west of Glenborrodale is the excellent Glenmore Natural History Centre, local photographer Michael McGregor's interactive exhibition which features some of his most stunning photographs of local wildlife. The centre is designed to interact with the environment and there's live video action of the surrounding wildlife, including pine martens, birds and even fish in the nearby river. It's a great place for kids, and adults too. There's also a café serving snacks, and a bookshop. Info - Apr-Oct 1030-1730 (Sun 1200-1730). Adult £2.50, concession £2, children £1.50. Tel. 500254.
A mile to the east is the RSPB Reserve where you can see golden eagles, otters and seals. You can take a two-hour wildlife trip to the seal colonies - or further afield to Tobermory on Mull or Staffa and the Treshnish Islands - with Ardnamurchan Charters, Tel. 500208, or Tel. 01967-431263.
A few miles west of the centre, the B8007 turns away from the coast. Here you'll see the beautiful bay of Camas nan Geall. It's worth stopping at the car park to admire the fantastic views, or take the path down to the beach. A great place to stay in Glenborrodale is C Feorag House, Tel. 500248, Fax. 500285. Between Glenborrodale and Kilchoan, a road runs to the north coast of the peninsula and the beautiful beaches at Fascadale, Kilmory and Ockle.
Kilchoan
The straggling crofting village of Kilchoan is the main settlement on Ardna- murchan. Shortly after passing the sign for the village, you can turn left to the scenic ruin of Mingary Castle, built around the 13th century. There's a Tourist Information Centre here which provides information on local scenic walks and will help with accommodation. It's open Easter-October Monday-Saturday 0900-1845, Sunday 1030-1715. Tel. 510222. A car and passenger ferry leaves Kilchoan for Tobermory on Mull. It sails mid-April to mid-October and the crossing takes 35 minutes.
Phone code: +44 (0)1972
Sleeping
There's a decent selection of accommodation. B Far View Cottage, Tel. 510357, www.ardamurchan.com/farview Open Mar-Nov. Superior and friendly B&B with great views and excellent food (mid-range; also for non-residents, but booking essential). B Meall Mo Chridhe, Tel./Fax. 510328. Open Apr-Oct. A beautiful 18th-century converted manse with great sea views and fine cooking. Full board also available (A). Dinner available for non-residents (expensive), but booking essential. A cheaper option is E Doirlinn House, Tel./Fax. 510209. A few miles beyond the village, on the road to Ardnamurchan Point, is D Sonachan Hotel, Tel./Fax. 510211, darie@sonachan.u-net.com You can get lunch (1200-1430; cheap) and dinner (1800-2000; mid-range) at the C Kilchoan House Hotel, Tel. 510200.
Ardnamurchan Point & Sanna Bay
Beyond Kilchoan the road leads to the lighthouse at mainland Britain's most westerly point, with stunning views (on a clear day) across to the small isles of Rùm, Eigg, Muck and Canna, with the Cuillins of Skye rising behind Rùm. The former lighthouse was designed by Alan Stevenson, father of Robert Louis, and built in 1849. The buildings have been converted into the Ardnamurchan Visitor Centre, where you can learn about the history and workings of lighthouses. There's also self-catering accommodation, a café and gift shop. Info - 1 Apr-31 Oct daily from 1000-1800 (1700 in Oct). Adult £2.50, concession/children £1.50. Tel. 510210.
A mile northwest of Kilchoan a road branches to the right to the beautiful long, white beach at Sanna Bay. It's worth making the trip here just to walk on the beach, but this is also a good place to spot whales and dolphins. On the road to Sanna Bay is the tiny settlement of Achnaha, which is famed for its rare 'ring-dyke' system, a huge, natural rock formation which is the crater of an extinct volcano. You can stay in Achnaha, at E-F Hillview, Tel. 510322.
You'll need your own transport to reach Ardnamurchan Point and Sanna Bay as there are no buses beyond Kilchoan.
Phone code: +44 (0)1972
Acharacle
North of Salen on the A861 is the scattered crofting township of Acharacle, at the western end of Loch Shiel surrounded by rolling hills. A couple of miles to the west a road leads to beautiful Kentra Bay. Cross the wooden bridge, follow the footpath round the side of Kentra Bay and then follow the signs for Gortenfearn, where you'll find the famous 'singing sands'. Not only is the beach music to the ears as you walk its length, but the view across to Skye and the small isles is a feast for the eyes.
Three miles north of Acharacle is Loch Moidart. Here, perched on a rocky promontory in the middle of the loch, is the 13th-century ruin of Castle Tioram (pronounced 'Cheerum'), one of Scotland's most romantic and atmospheric castles. This was the seat of the MacDonalds of Clanranald, until it was destroyed by their chief in 1715 to prevent it from falling into Hanoverian hands while he was away fighting for the Jacobites. There are plans to restore the castle, but you can visit it (free) via the sandy causeway that connects it to the mainland at low tide.
Phone code: +44 (0)1967
Sleeping
The village has several shops, a post office, garage and plenty of places to stay. C Loch Shiel House Hotel, Tel. 431224, Fax. 431200. 10 rooms. Comfortable and decent bar meals (cheap lunch; mid-range to cheap dinner). Contact them for details of cruises on Loch Shiel. A couple of good B&Bs are C Belmont House, Tel. 431266; and D-E Ardshealach House, Tel. 431301; open Apr-Sep. Food is also available at the Clanranald Hotel, at Mingarry, Tel. 431202. About 5 miles east of the village, on a side road off the A861 north to Lochailort and Mallaig, is the very beautiful D Dalilea House, Tel. 431253; open Apr-Oct.
Sports
From Dalilea Pier you can cross to The Achnanellan Centre, Tel. 431265, an outdoor activities centre on the south shore of Loch Shiel at the foot of Beinn Resipol (2,772 ft). They hire out mountain bikes, canoes, sail boats and camping equipment, as well as providing cheap, basic bunkhouse accommodation (F). It was from Dalilea Pier that Bonnie Prince Charlie left to sail up Loch Shiel to raise his standard at Glenfinnan.