Around Gairloch
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Around Gairloch
The beach by the golf course at Gairloch is nice, but the beach at Big Sand, a few miles northwest of Strath, is better, and quieter. Further north is Melvaig, from where you can walk to Rubha Reidh Lighthouse. Around the headland from the lighthouse is the beautiful, secluded beach at Camas Mor. This is a good place for spotting sea birds, and there's a great walk from here on a marked footpath to Midtown, four miles northwest of Poolewe. You'll have to walk or hitch from here as there's no public transport to Poolewe.
Many of the roads in the area were built during the Potato Famine of 1840 in order to give men work, with funds supplied by Dowager Lady Mackenzie of Gairloch. These became know as the 'Destitution Roads', and one of these is the narrow B8056 which runs west for nine miles to Red Point from the junction three miles south of Gairloch, at Kerrysdale. This is a lovely little side trip and well worth it, especially on a clear evening to enjoy the magnificent sunsets at Red Point beach. The beach itself is extremely beautiful, backed by steep dunes and looking across to the Trotternish peninsula on Skye. So romantic is this spot that some people (naming no names) have been known to plight their troth here. Red Point is also the start or finish point for the excellent coastal walk to or from Diabaig. On the road to Red Point is the picturesque little hamlet of Badachro, tucked away in a wooded, sheltered bay with fishing boats moored in its natural harbour. It's worth stopping off here on the way back from Red Point for a wee dram at the Badachro Inn.
There are lots of other good walks in the area, including to Flowerdale Falls and the Fairy Lochs and the USAAF Liberator. The TIC has a selection of walking guides and OS maps. Phone code: +44 (0)1445
Last Minute Deals Around Gairloch
Last Minute Deals Around Gairloch
Cottages North West Scotland
Self Catering Cottages around Gairloch
Poolewe
Five miles east of Gairloch on the other side of the peninsula is the neat little village of Poolewe, beautifully set at the mouth of the River Ewe, where it cascades into sheltered Loch Ewe. There are some good walks around Poolewe, including the one around Loch Kernsary described above. There's also a nice little drive up the side road running along the west shore of Loch Ewe to Cove. You can walk from Midtown, midway along the road, to Rubha Reidh, north of Gairloch.
Sleeping and eating
There are several places to stay in and around Poolewe and the TIC in Gairloch will help you find accommodation. On the Cove road by the lochside is the former home of Osgood Mackenzie, the Pool House Hotel, Tel. 781272, poolhouse@inverewe.co.uk, open Mar- Dec. It enjoys great views and serves good food (expensive). At Inverasdale, a few miles up the Cove road, is E Bruach Ard, Tel. 781214, open Apr-Oct. Further up this road, near Cove, is E Mrs MacDonald, Tel. 781354, open Apr-Oct. Above Poolewe, reached by a path that leads from the road beside the campsite, is E Mrs MacIver, Tel. 781389, open Apr-Oct. The excellent Camping and Caravan Club Site, Tel. 781249, is between Poolewe village and Inverewe Garden.
The best place to eat in Poolewe is probably the licensed restaurant at Inverewe Garden which is open daily 1000-1700 (see below). If you need to grab a quick snack, or fancy a coffee, try the Bridge Cottage Café, which is on the left at the turn-off to Cove.
Inverewe Garden
The reason most people come here is to visit Inverewe Garden where you'll find an astonishing collection of exotic subtropical plants growing on the same latitude as Siberia, thanks to the mild climate created by the North Atlantic Drift. This wonderful 50-acre oasis of colour is a mecca for garden lovers, but even those who flinch at the mere sight of a lawn-mower will be bowled over by the sheer scale and diversity of plants and flowers on view.
The garden was created from a treeless wilderness by Osgood Mackenzie, starting in 1862. By the time of his death in 1922 he had produced an internationally renowned walled and woodland garden. His work was continued by his daughter, who then gave the garden to the National Trust for Scotland in 1952. Since then, the plant collection has diversified even more and an intricate maze of paths leads you through ever-changing displays of Himalayan rhododendrons, Tasmanian eucalyptus, many Chilean and South African species, together with a large collection of New Zealand plants.
The garden is well worth visiting in any weather and at any time of the year, but especially from the end of April through the summer when the rhododendrons are in bloom. You should allow at least a couple of hours to do it justice. The garden is about a mile north of Poolewe on the main A832. There's a visitor centre and gift shop and a good restaurant, which serves snacks and hot meals. Info - Garden open Jan-Mar daily 0930-1600, Apr-Oct 0930-2100; free guided garden walks mid-May to early Sep Mon-Fri at 1330; visitor centre and shop Apr-Sep daily 0930-1700, Oct 0930-1600. £8, concession £5, family £20. Tel.781200.
Around Laide
North of Poolewe the A832 passes Aultbea on its way to Laide, where it then skirts the shores of Gruinard Bay, with its lovely coves of pink sand. From Laide Post Office a side road branches north to Mellon Udrigle and Opinan, both with great beaches. Between Laide and Mellon Udrigle, at Achgarve, a road branches left for about half a mile. From the end of this road you can walk all the way to Slaggan, a ruined village on the other side of the peninsula. It's a nice spot for a picnic but don't be tempted to swim in the sea as the tidal race makes it dangerous.
Gruinard Bay is a very beautiful part of the northwest coast but will always be synonymous with Gruinard Island, standing ominously in the middle of the bay. The island was used as a testing ground for biological warfare during the Second World War and was contaminated with anthrax spores. The Ministry of Defence finally agreed to decontaminate it in 1990 and it has now been declared 'safe'.
Phone code: +44 (0)1445
Sleeping
There are a couple of really good places to stay around here. In the village of Laide is the Old Smiddy Guest House, Tel. 731425, oldsmiddy@aol.com, open Apr-Oct. Its excellent restaurant is also open to non-residents, but it's best to book well in advance (expensive). There's also a campsite in Laide, the Gruinard Bay Caravan Park, Tel. 731225, open Apr-Oct.
Transport
There are daily buses to Laide from Gairloch with Westerbus, Tel. 712255. Some of them continue to Mellon Udrigle. There are buses between Laide and Inverness 3 times a week (Tue, Thu and Fri), leaving at 0805 and returning at 1705. There are also buses on other days between Gairloch and Inverness which stop at Laide (see above under Gairloch).
Dundonnell
The road heads inland then runs along the southern shore of Little Loch Broom to Dundonnell, from where there are spectacular views of awesome An Teallach (3,483 ft), a mountain of almost mythical status amongst Scottish climbers and spoken of in hushed, reverential tones. The path to the highest of its summits is clear and begins southeast of the Dundonell Hotel. It will take a full day and you'll need to be well prepared (OS map No 19) and heed the usual advice.
You can stay at the Dundonnell Hotel, Tel. 633204, selbie@dundonnellhotel.co.uk, open February-December, which does good meals (cheap to mid-range bar meals; expensive three-course dinner). Alternatively there's B&B at Mrs Ross, Tel. 633237, in Camusnagaul, a few miles back up the loch. Also in Camusnagaul is the Sail Mhor Croft Independent Hostel, Tel. 633224, sailmhor@btinternet.com, but you should call before arriving.
A few miles beyond Dundonnell, a side road branches left and runs for seven miles to the tiny, remote hamlet of Badrallach, where you can stay at the Badrallach Bothy & Camp Site, Tel. 633281.
Phone code: +44 (0)1854
Falls of Measach
The A832 coastal road from Gairloch and Poolewe meets the A835 Ullapool-Inverness main road at Braemore junction, 12 miles south of Ullapool. Before heading on to Ullapool it's worth stopping at the very impressive Falls of Measach, just by the junction. The falls plunge 150 ft into the spectacular Corrieshalloch Gorge (or 'ugly/fearsome gorge' in Gaelic) and can be crossed by a distinctly wobbly suspension bridge (not for vertigo sufferers). The falls can be reached from the A835, but the most dramatic approach is from the A832 Gairloch road.