Benbecula
Contents |
Benbecula Guide
Outer Hebrides | Travelling around Outer Hebrides | Accommodation | General Information | Lewis (Leodhas | Harris (Na Hearadh) | North Uist | Berneray | Benbecula | South Uist | Barra | St Kilda
Phone code: + 44 (0) 1870 | Population: 1,803
Tiny Benbecula may be suffering from delusions of stature. Its Gaelic name means 'mountain of the fords', but the highest point is a mere 407 ft, with the rest of the island as flat as a pancake. It lies between Protestant North Uist and Catholic South Uist, and most visitors use it solely as a means of getting from one to the other via the A865 which cuts straight through the middle.
Getting to Benbecula & around
Benbecula's airport is at Balivanich and there are direct flights to Glasgow, Barra and Stornoway. The island is connected by causeways to both North and South Uist, and buses travelling to and from Lochmaddy and Lochboisdale pass through the villages of Balivanich, Lionacleit (Liniclate) and Creag Ghoraidh (Creagorry). There are also regular island buses which run between these settlements.
Baile a Mhanaich (Balivanich)
Like North Uist, the east of the island is so pitted with lochs that most people live on the west coast. A large percentage of the population are Royal Artillery personnel and their families stationed at Baile a Mhanaich (Balivanich), a sprawling army base of utilitarian buildings in the northwest of the island. The influx of so many English-speakers has had a less than positive impact on Gaelic culture, and the military facilities have blighted much of the island's natural beauty, but Benbecula has benefited economically from the army's presence. Not only is there an airport here, but also a relatively large number of shops and amenities, including the only NAAFI supermarket in the UK that's open to the public, a Bank of Scotland (with ATM) and post office. There are worries, however, that the base may be run down or closed, which would have a devastating effect on the local economy.
South to Lionacleit (Liniclate)
South of Balivanich the B892 runs around the west coast before joining the main A865 at the southern end of the island. It runs past Culla Bay, overlooked by Baille nan Cailleach (Nunton). It was from here in 1746 that Bonnie Prince Charlie set off with Flora MacDonald over the sea to Skye, disguised as her maid. To the south is Poll-na-Crann, better known as 'stinky bay' because of the piles of seaweed deposited there by fierce Atlantic storms. From the mid-18th century this kelp was used extensively in making glass, and provided a source of income for many communities. By 1820 the so-called kelp boom was over, though it is still gathered today and used for fertilizer.
The B892 ends at Lionacleit (Liniclate), where the new community school serves the Uists and Benbecula. It has extensive facilities, including internet, a swimming pool, library, theatre and even a small local history museum. Info Mon, Tue and Thu 0900-1600, Wed 0900-1230 and 1330-1600, Fri 0900-2000, Sat 1100-1300 and 1400-1600. Free.
Sleeping & eating: Accommodation on Benbecula
Most accommodation is in Lionacleit, including the functional A Dark Island Hotel, Tel. 603030, Fax. 602347, which is a lot nicer inside than its name may suggest, and has a good restaurant. There's also D Inchyra Guest House, Tel. 602176 as well as a couple of B&Bs (both E) and the Shellbay Caravan and Camping Park, Tel. 602447; open Apr-Oct. In Balivanich is a new hostel, F Tigh-na-Cille Bunkhouse, Tel. 602522, which is open all year and sleeps 10 in 2 dorms and 2 twin rooms.
By far the best place to eat on the island is the Stepping Stone Restaurant in Balivanich, Tel. 603377, Fax. 603121, which offers good wholesome Scottish food every day from 1000 till 2100. Snacks, sandwiches, takeaways and home baking are all available, as well as 3- or 5-course meals (mid-range to expensive).
Directory
Car hire Maclennan Self Drive, Balivanich (Tel. 602191, Fax. 603191); Ask Car Hire, Lionacleit (Tel. 602818, Fax. 602933).