Cairngorm Activities
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Activities In The Cairngorms
The Nevis Range Ski Centre, four miles northeast of Fort William at Torlundy, is situated on the mountain of Aonach Mhor (4,006 ft). It's Scotland's highest skiing and snowboarding area and has the longest ski season, running from Christmas to May. It also boasts the country's only cable-car system, built in 1989. The 1 mile gondola ride is a popular attraction not only with skiers and snowboarders in the winter but also during the summer off-season period, when it's used by hill walkers to gain easy access to the mountains.
For most tourists, though, it's an easy way to climb to over 2,000 ft and enjoy the wonderful views from the terrace of the self-service restaurant at the top. There are ski and snowboarding schools and also a dry slope for summer skiing in July and August (open Sunday-Thursday 1100-1230).
The gondola is open all year, except early November to the week before Christmas, 1000-1700 (July-August 0930-1800, Thu-Fri till 2100). Tel. 01397-705825, www.ski.scotland.net
Steall Falls
A fairly easy low-level walk is to the spectacular 300 ft-high Steall Falls at the head of the glen. It's a popular walk, especially in the summer when the trail can resemble the queue for the Ladies at a Tom Jones concert, but this doesn't detract from its stunning natural beauty.
The path starts at the end of the road, at the second car park. Before setting off you might like to note the sign by the steep waterfall that cascades down to the edge of the car park. It reads 'Warning! This is not the path to Ben Nevis'. Now, if you need to be warned against attempting to climb up Ben Nevis through a waterfall, you probably shouldn't be left alone in possession of this book, never mind let loose on the Scottish mountains. Once you've shaken your head in disbelief at the apparent mind-numbing stupidity of some of your fellow travellers, follow the track alongside the Water of Nevis. The path climbs steadily through the woods and becomes rocky, with the river thundering below through the steep gorge. It runs close to the river before emerging from the gorge and opening up into a wide, flower-filled meadow, with a high waterfall at the far end. It's a beautiful, tranquil place and ideal for a picnic.
Follow the path across the valley floor till it crosses the river via a precarious bridge that consists of three ropes of thick wire in a V-shape. The path then leads to the bottom of the falls. You can also head left at the bridge and continue up the valley to some ruins. From here the path leads to Corrour station, 14 miles away, but it's for fit and experienced hillwalkers only. You can then catch a train back to Fort William. It's a very popular route, and there's even accommodation at the end of it, near the train station, at the SYHA Loch Lochy Youth Hostel (Tel. 01809-501239; open mid-March to late October).
Glen Coe Massacre
Glen Coe is probably best known as the scene of one of the most shameful and notorious incidents in Scottish history.
Following his succession to the throne, William III wanted all the clans to swear an oath of allegiance by 1 January 1692. After much hesitation, the Jacobite clans of the West Highlands agreed to do so. However, MacIain of Glencoe, chief of a small branch of the MacDonalds, was not only late in setting off on the journey, but mistakenly went to Fort William to sign, instead of Inveraray. By the time he reached Inveraray it was 6 January and the deadline had passed.
The government decided that the rebellious clan be punished, in order to set an example to other clans, some of whom had not taken the oath. A company of 120 soldiers, under the command of Cambell of Glenlyon, were sent to Glen Coe and, since their leader was related by marriage to MacIain, the troops were billeted in MacDonald homes, in keeping with the long-standing Highland tradition of hospitality. There they stayed for almost two weeks, until the cold-blooded order came through to '… put all to the sword under seventy'. And so, on a cold winter's night, in the early hours of 13 February 1692, the Campbells ruthlessly slaughtered their hosts.
MacIain and 37 men, women and children were slain in their beds, while many others fled into the hills, only to die of hunger and exposure. It was a bloody incident which had deep repercussions and proved to be the beginning of the end of the Highland way of life.
There's a monument to the fallen MacDonalds in the village of Glencoe, where members of the clan still gather on 13 February each year. For a powerful and evocative account of the Massacre, you should read Glencoe by John Prebble (Penguin).
Glencoe Ski Centre
The Glencoe Ski Centre is just over a mile from the Kingshouse Hotel, on the other side of the A82, on Meall A'Bhuiridh (3,636 ft). This is Scotland's oldest ski centre, established in 1956, and remains one of the best, with the longest single descent. At the base station is the Museum of Scottish Skiing and Climbing where you can see the ice axe used by Chris Bonnington, among other things. It's open May-September daily 0900-1700. There's also a restaurant and café. The chair lift operates daily 0930-1700. A full day pass includes lifts. There's also a combined five-day pass for Glencoe and Nevis Range. Tel. 851226, glencoe@sol.co.uk, www.ski.scotland.net
Walk around Loch Kernsary
This straightforward but rewarding walk covers six miles and should take around 2€ to three hours. The track is very boggy underfoot in places, especially after rain, so you'll need good boots.
Start in Poolewe, from the car park by the school near the bridge over the Ewe. Head up the single-track road with the river on your right. Go through the gate, then the track heads away from the river and up into woodland. At the Letterewe Estate gate cross the stile and continue to the next fork. Turn left here to Kernsary Estate, with views of Loch Maree and Beinn Eighe to the south. Follow the track to the next gate, go through and cross the wooden bridge. Continue along the track and you'll see Loch Kernsary on your left. At the next fork, turn left over the bridge and pass Kernsary Cottage on the right.
Beyond the cottage, go through the gate and immediately head left down towards the burn, where the ground may be boggy. There's no path here, but cross the wooden footbridge and continue straight on, past the piles of stones on your left. Cross the stile, and the path follows the length of Loch Kernsary. At the head of the loch, the path climbs to give you views down to Poolewe. Follow the path down till it eventually takes you to the main road. Turn left and follow the road back to the car park.
Walks around Ullapool
There are several good walking trails which start in Ullapool. One of these is to the top of Ullapool Hill, or Meall Mhor (886 ft). Starting from the tourist office, head to the end of Argyle Street, turn left on to North Road and then cross the road at the Far Isles Restaurant. Walk down the lane between Broom Court and the Hydro sub-station and then follow the path which zig-zags up the hillside. There's a good cairned path up to the top of the hill. The views from the top over Glen Achall, and on a clear day, the mountains of Sutherland, are superb. You can return by traversing the hillside to the top of the Braes, or take a track leading to Loch Achall and follow the Ullapool river through the quarry road back to the village. The return trip takes one to two hours.
A relatively easy, but much longer walk, of five to six hours, is to Rhidorroch Estate. Take the A835 north out of Ullapool. Opposite the petrol station and before the bridge, take the road on the right signed 'Quarry'. Go through the quarry keeping to the left, and follow the Ullapool river till you see Loch Achall. Continue along the north bank of the loch for another six miles. East Rhidorroch Lodge is on the right; cross the bridge to get there, then skirt the lodge fences and cross to the track which leads up the southwestern hill. This brings you out to Leckmelm, about four miles south of Ullapool on the A835. This last section offers wonderful views across Loch Broom to An Teallach. From Leckmelm you can also climb Beinn Eilideach (1,837 ft).
A good coastal walk is to Rhue Lighthouse and back. From the north end of Quay Street go down the steps to the river. Cross the bridges and head left by the football field. Follow the path to the left by the duck pond and cross in front of the bungalow. Then follow the shoreline north for about two miles, climbing up the hillside when the tide is high. Follow the path till you reach the little white lighthouse at Rhue Point. To return, take the single-track road out of Rhue back to the main road and up over the hill to Ullapool. It's about six miles in total.
There are many more strenuous hiking routes around Ullapool. The A835 south of town gives access to Beinn DeargBeinn Dearg (3,556 ft) and the Fannichs, a range of hills on the southern side of Dirrie More. There's also An Teallach, a favourite with Scottish climbers. North of Ullapool are the mountains within the Inverpolly National Nature Reserve. These include Ben Mór CoigachBen Mór Coigach (2,438 ft), Stac PollaidhStac Pollaidh (2,011 ft), Cul BeagCul Beag (2,523 ft) and Cul MórCul Mór (2,786 ft).
All routes are covered by OS Maps Nos 15, 19 and 20. They all require hillwalking experience and you should be well prepared for the unpredictable weather conditions. A good climbing guidebook is The Northern Highlands, SMC District Guide, by Tom Strang. North West Frontiers is an Ullapool-based tour company offering guided walking tours around Ullapool and throughout the Northwest Highlands. Contact them at: 18A Braes, Ullapool, IV26 2SZ, Tel./Fax. 612628, NWF@compuserve.com, ourworld.compuserve.com/ homepages/NWF
Old Man of Stoer
A side road turns left off the B869 north of Stoer and runs out to Stoer lighthouse. From here you can walk across the Stoer Peninsula to the Old Man of Stoer, a dramatic rock pillar standing offshore, surrounded by sheer cliffs. Allow about three hours for the circular walk which starts and ends in the lighthouse car park. There is no public transport to the lighthouse, but the Lochinver-Drumbeg postbus runs to Raffin, one mile away.
A clear path runs from the car park to the cliffs then follows the line of the cliffs northwards. The path heads inland for a short distance as it bypasses a deep gully then meets the clifftop again, and after a mile or so you can see the Old Man tucked away in a shallow bay, battered by huge waves.
Beyond the Old Man the path continues to the headland, the Point of Stoer, from where it turns back on itself and climbs Sidhean Mór (532 ft). The views from here are fantastic, across to Harris and Lewis and south to the mountains of Assynt. From here, follow the faint path south, back towards the lighthouse, passing a small loch below Sidhean Beag on your left and an abvious cairn on your right. Then you pass a radio mast and follow the clear track back to the lighthouse car park.
Nine miles further on, in beautiful Eddrachillis Bay Drumbeg , a popular place for anglers who come to fish in the many lochs of North Assynt. There's not much accommodation around here other than self-catering cottages, but you can spend the night at D Taigh Druimbeag, Tel. 833209; open Easter to the end of October. OS Landranger Map No 15 covers the route.
Strathmore to Braemore walk
This walk gives a flavour of the bleak but beautiful landscape of the Caithness hinterland. The 16-mile linear route starts from Strathmore Lodge. To get there, head south from Thurso on the B874. After a short distance turn on to the B870 and follow it for 10 miles to the little hamlet of Westerdale, which stands on the River Thurso. Turn right here on to an unnumbered road and follow this road for about five miles. Just past the white Strathmore Lodge the road splits. Follow the right-hand track which runs through commercial forestry, before emerging on to open moor with Loch More on the left.
Where the forestry begins again on the right, the track swings left across an arm of the loch and heads southwards. At the southern end of the loch a track runs left to Dalnaha, but keep going straight ahead, along the valley of the River Thurso. You then reach a cluster of buildings at Dalnawillan Lodge. Ignore the track which heads off to the right and carry straight on, past the house at Dalganachan, over Rumsdale Water and on to the junction before The Glutt, which is a series of buildings. Turn left here and follow the track for a further four miles till you reach the junction beside Lochan nan Bò Riabach. Continue down the valley of Berriedale Water to Braemore. There is no public transport from here, so you'll have to arrange your own transport if you don't want to retrace your steps. OS sheet No 11 covers the route.
After the Gold Rush
A short drive from Helmsdale, up the Strath of Kildonan (or Strath Ullie), is Baile an Or (Gaelic for 'goldfield'), site of the great Sutherland Gold Rush of 1869. It all started after local man Robert Gilchrist returned home from the Australian gold fields only to discover gold here, on his doorstep. His success brought others rushing to Kildonan, and soon a shanty town had sprung up to accommodate them.
Within a year the gold rush was over, but small amounts are still found today. Anyone who fancies their luck can try a bit of gold panning in the Kildonan Burn at Baile an Or, about a mile from Kildonan train station. You can rent out gold panning kits at Strath Ullie Crafts & Fishing Tackle, Tel. 821343, opposite the Timespan Heritage Centre in Helmsdale, for £2.50 per day, and licences are free.
Loch Morlich to Lairig Ghru walk
The famous Lairig Ghru is an ancient route through the Cairngorms which passes between Ben Macdui and Braeriach. It is a very strenuous walk and only for fit and experienced hikers. An easier proposition is a 12-mile loop which leads to the start of the Lairig Ghru pass, starting from Loch Morlich.
To reach Loch Morlich take the B970 east from the southern end of Aviemore, beyond Coylumbridge. The route starts at the western end of Loch Morlich where a forestry track runs south from the road. It leads to a bridge over the River Luineag. Cross the bridge and continue along the track, keeping straight on where another track heads off left. About a mile further on, another track heads off to the right, but keep to the left fork, signposted for Rothiemurchus Lodge.
The track climbs up towards the lodge. Just before it, turn right on to a clear track which leads up to a reservoir. Soon another track heads off to the right signposted for the Lairig Ghru. Follow this path through heather moorland. The path then heads left, climbing up through open moorland to the lip of the glen. The entrance to the Lairig Ghru is straight ahead.
After about a mile, as the hills begin to encroach on either side, a rough path almost doubles back to the left. Follow this path up the slope to the gap between Creag a' Chalamain and Creag an Leith-choin. The deep gully, the Chalamain Gap, is filled with huge boulders and requires great care when clambering through it. Beyond the gully a path leads through heather and pine saplings, dropping down to the side of a burn, then climbing up on the other side of the burn. Continue on this path, which then drops steeply down to the side of the burn. Cross the footbridge and climb the slope beyond to reach the main road. Turn left along the road to return to the start of the route.