Dormoch
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Dornoch
Dornoch is another architectural gem with its deep, golden sandstone houses and leafy cathedral square. Bishop Gilbert of Moravia (Moray) built the cathedral circa 1245. His family's success in gaining a foothold in Northeast Scotland against the Norsemen was rewarded with the Earldom of Sutherland. It was trouble with the Jarls which prompted Gilbert to move his power base here from Caithness, mindful that his predecessor had been boiled in butter by the locals.
Getting there
There are buses to and from Inverness (hourly Mon-Sat, 5 times on Sun). Citylink buses between Inverness and Thurso also stop in Dornoch 4 daily. The Tourist Information Centre, Tel. 810400, is on the main square. Open Apr-Oct Mon-Sat 0900-1300 and 1400-1700.
Sights
The 13th-century cathedral was badly damaged in 1570, then subjected to an ill-conceived 'restoration' by the Countess of Sutherland in 1835. Among the few surviving features is a series of gargoyles, including a green man, and the effigy of an unknown knight. Info - Mon-Fri 0730-2000. You can climb the cathedral tower during Jul and Aug. Opposite the cathedral is the 16th-century Bishop's Palace, now a hotel (see below).
Nowadays Dornoch is famous for its links golf course, rated as one of the world's finests and relatively easy to get on. It overlooks miles of dunes and pristine sandy beach. A stone near the links marks the spot where the last witch in Scotland was burned in 1722. Folklore recounts a bloody battle against raiding Vikings in 1259 on the beach at Embo, just to the north, in which Sir Richard Murray was killed. The battle is commemorated at the Earl's Cross. Trout fishing is available on Dornoch Lochans; enquire locally.
Straggling crofting townships such as Rogart are scattered through the glens and around the coast, all occupied and worked vigorously. The coastal population was swollen in the 19th century by tenants evicted from the inland glens, resettled here and encouraged to try fishing at such villages as Embo. Others joined the eager flood of emigrants to the New World already under way. Crofting tenancies still exist, but crofters now enjoy more protection.
North of Dornoch is Loch Fleet, a river estuary with a ferocious tide race at its mouth and an SNH reserve protecting rare birds and plants. The rotting skeletons of the fishing fleet abandoned in the First World War lie in the sand on the south shore west of the car park. Nearby Skibo Castle where Mr and Mrs Madonna tied the knot, in relative secrecy. It is home to the very, very exclusive Carnegie Club (www.carnegieclub.co.uk, for envious voyeurs or those with too much money). The details of accommodation are available from the Dornoch tourist office. There are several walks in the forestry plantations in the area.
The Dornoch Light Railway opened in 1902 and linked the Burgh to the main line from Inverness to Thurso. Although the railway is no longer in use, the station and platform can still be seen and the line now provides a safe track for walkers to the former fishing village of Embo.
Sleeping & eating
There's plenty of accommodation in Dornoch, which can be booked at the tourist office. Dornoch Castle Hotel, Tel. 810216, www.dornochcastle.com, open Apr-Oct. Formerly the Bishop's Palace, this 16th-century building is full of character and boasts excellent food (expensive). Late Rooms Availability for Dornoch Castle in Dornoch
Another fine hotel is The Royal Golf Hotel, Tel./Fax. 810283, scotland@morton-hotels.demon.co.uk, next to the first tee. Late Rooms Availability for Royal Golf in Dornoch
There are also lots of good B&Bs and a campsite.
Apart from the hotels listed above, a good place to dine is The Two Quails, on Castle St, where you can enjoy an expensive but top-class dinner cooked by a chef trained at the Ritz. Next door is Luigi's, for excellent coffee and a range of exotic ice creams.
An elegant 4 star Hotel on the North East Coast of Sutherland, designed as a private home by the renowned Scottish architect Sir Robert Lorimer.more details about Royal Marine Hotel and Leisure Club
Self catering Cottages in Dornoch
- DORNOCH (near) - Sutherland Sleeps 12
Golspie
There is little to recommend the little town of Golspie, though it does have a couple of banks and supermarkets. There's an 18-hole golf course, and the Orcadian Stone Company has a large display of fossils and geological specimens from the Highlands and beyond. The town lives in the dark shadow of the Sutherlands. On Beinn a'Bhraggaidh (1,293 ft), to the southwest, is a huge, 100 ft-high monument to the Duke of Sutherland. Those who make it up to the monument and who know something of the Duke's many despicable acts may find the inscription risible, as it describes him as "a judicious, kind and liberal landlord". There's no reference to the fact that he forcibly evicted 15,000 tenants from his estate. Not surprisingly, locals would like to see this eyesore removed from the landscape, broken into tiny pieces and then scattered far and wide. Unfortunately, they have thus far been unsuccessful.
The aptly named Dunrobin Castle, one mile north of the village, is the ancient seat of the Dukes of Sutherland, who once owned more land than anyone else in the British Empire. Much enlarged and aggrandized in the 19th century with fairy-tale turrets, the enormous 189-room castle, the largest house in the Highlands, is stuffed full of fine furniture, paintings, tapestries and objets d'art and bears witness to their obscene wealth. The castle overlooks beautiful gardens laid out with box hedges, ornamental trees and fountains. In stormy weather you should listen to the sea crashing on the beach beyond the walls. The museum is an animal-lover's nightmare and almost a caricature of the aristocracy, with a spectacular Victorian taxidermy collection. There are also local antiquities, some from ancient brochs, and Pictish stonecarvings. Info - Apr-May and 1-15 Oct Mon-Sat 1030-1630, Sun 1200-1630; Jun-Sep Mon-Sat 1030-1730, Sun 1200-1730, £6.50, concession £5.50, children £4.50. Tel. 633177.
Brora
Brora sits at the mouth of the River Brora which, as everywhere on this coast, is the site of a once-lucrative salmon netting industry. At the harbour, the ice house is a relic of the herring boom. Coal mines, opened in the 16th century, salt pans and a brickworks are all defunct. Still very much alive, however, is Hunter's, the local weavers of heavyweight traditional tweeds, and a good place to invest in some natty headwear. A mile or so north of town is the Clynelish distillery. Info - Easter-Sep Mon-Fri 1000-1700, Oct 1100-1600, Nov-Easter by appointment, £4, Tel. 623000. Castle Cole in lovely Strath Brora, eight miles northwest, is one of several ruined brochs. Another, Carn Liath (signposted), is by the main road, three miles south of Brora.
One detached and one semi-detached self catering holiday cottages are one mile north of the popular holiday village of BRORA, north of Inverness.
more details about Highland Hawking Holidays
Sleeping and eating
Next to each other, overlooking Brora's golf course are The Links & Royal Marine Hotels, Tel. 621252, highlandescape@btinternet.com Among the many B&Bs is Glenaveron, on Golf Rd, Tel./Fax. 621601, glenaveron@hotmail.com If you're staying or just passing through don't miss Capaldi's, on the High St, for exquisite home-made Italian ice cream.
Helmsdale
North of Brora is the former herring port of Helmsdale, which gets busy in the summer. The village is most notable for its excellent Timespan Heritage Centre, which brings the history of the Highlands to life through a series of high-tech displays, sound effects and an audiovisual programme. There is also a cafe and shop on site. Info - Easter-Oct Mon-Sat 1000-1700, Sun 1400-1700, £4, concession £2, children £1.75, Tel. 821327.
North from Helmsdale the A9 climbs spectacularly up the Ord of Caithness and over the pass enters a desolate, treeless landscape; an area devastated during the Clearances. To get some idea of the hardships people had to endure, stop at the ruined crofting village of Badbea, just beyond Ousdale. At Berriedale a farm track leads west to the Wag, from where you can climb Morven (2,313 ft), the highest hill in Caithness, with amazing views across the whole county.
Phone code: +44 (0)1431
Getting there
Helmsdale is on the Inverness-Wick/Thurso rail line. Buses and trains are the same as for Wick (see below). The Tourist Information Centre, Tel. 821640, is on the south side of the village, by the A9. Apr-Sep Mon-Sat 1000-1700.
The centre also includes a model of Barbara Cartland, which may seem incongruous, until you venture across the road to the La Mirage tearoom and see the lady herself in the flesh (pink, of course) - or so it seems. The proprietrix is the inimitable Nancy Sinclair, who has modelled herself, and her tearoom, on the queen of romantic novels. The whole effect is pure kitsch and you never know who might pop in for a plate of fish and chips. Daily 1200-2045 (Dec-Apr till 1900).
Sleeping and eating
Another good place to eat is the Navidale House Hotel, Tel. 821258, open Feb-Nov. There are also several B&Bs, including Broomhill House, Tel. 821259, with its distinctive turret; and Torbuie, Tel. 821424, in Navidale, about a mile south. There's also an SYHA Youth Hostel, Tel. 821577, open mid-May to early Oct.
Dunbeath
The A9 coast road then drops down into Dunbeath, a pleasant little village at the mouth of a small strath (or glen). This was the birthplace of one of Scotland's foremost writers, Neil Gunn (1891-1973). His finest works, such as The Silver Darlings and Highland River, reflect his experiences of growing up in the northeast and are fascinating accounts of life here during the days of the herring boom, though the sleepy harbour of today is barely recognizable as the erstwhile bustling fishing port.
The villages of Dunbeath, and Latherton to the north, are included on the Neil Gunn Trail, as is the beautiful walk up the glen, described in the leaflet available at the Dunbeath Heritage Centre. Here, you can learn all about the life and works of the famous novelist as well as the history of Caithness. Info - Easter-Oct daily 1000-1700, £2, concession £1, children free, Tel. 731233. If you fancy something to eat, the Dunbeath Hotel, Tel. 731208, does good, cheap bar meals.
Just outside the village is the Laidhay Croft Museum, a restored traditional longhouse with stable, house and byre all under the same roof. Info -Easter-Oct daily 1000-1700, £1, children £0.50, Tel. 731370, a traditional longhouse with stable, house and byre all under the same roof.