Dumfries
Dumfries
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Introduction to Dumfries
Phone code: +44 (0)1387
Dumfries is the largest town in southwest Scotland, straddling the River Nith, a few miles from the Solway Firth. Known as the 'Queen of the South', Dumfries has long been a thriving market town and seaport for a large agricultural hinterland, and its strategic position made it a prime target for English armies. Its long history of successive invasions began in 1306, when Robert the Bruce committed the first act of rebellion against Edward I by capturing Dumfries Castle, which led to the Wars of Independence.
But it was town planners in the 1960s who did more to destroy the town centre than invading armies. Nevertheless, Dumfries is a pleasant and convenient base from which to explore the beautiful Solway coast, and its associations with Robert Burns, who spent the last years of his life here, also make it worth a visit in its own right. There are many interesting sights lying within easy distance of Dumfries, including Caerlaverock Castle to the southeast, and Ellisland Farm and Drumlanrig Castle to the north in Nithsdale.
Ins and outs: Getting to Dumfries
The bus station is only a short walk west of the High St, at the top of Whitesands beside the river. The train station is on the east side of town, a 5-min walk from the centre. The Tourist Information Centre is at 64 Whitesands, on the corner of Bank St, Tel 253862. Apr, May and Oct daily 1000-1700; Jun-Sep daily 0930-1800.
Sights: what to do in Dumfries
Most of the town's attractions and facilities are on the east side of the river. A tour of the main sights should begin on the pedestrianized High Street, at the Burns Statue, at its northern end. It shows the great bard sitting on a tree stump with his faithful dog at his feet. A few minutes' walk along the High Street is the Midsteeple, built in 1707 to serve as a courthouse and prison.
Nearby, at 56 High Street, is the Globe Inn, Tel 252335, one of Burns' regular drinking haunts, where you can sit in the poet's favourite chair and enjoy a drink. Continue down the High Street and follow the signs for Burns' House, in Burns Street, where the poet spent the last few years of his life, and died in 1796. It contains some interesting memorabilia, including original letters and manuscripts. Info: Apr-Sep Mon-Sat 1000-1700, Sun 1400-1700; Oct-Mar Tue-Sat 1000-1300, 1400-1700. Free. Tel 255297. Just to the south is the red sandstone St Michael's Church. In the churchyard is the mausoleum where Burns lies buried.
On the other side of the river, on Mill Road, is the award-winning Robert Burns Centre, housed in an old water mill. It tells the story of Burns' last years in the town. Info: Apr-Sep Mon-Sat 1000-2000, Sun 1400-1700; Oct-Mar Tue-Sat 1000-1300 and 1400-1700. Tel 264808. On the hill above, centred around an 18th-century windmill tower, is Dumfries Museum, which has good local history, natural history and anthropology displays.
Info: Apr-Sep Mon-Sat 1000-1700, Sun 1400-1700; Oct-Mar Tue-Sat 1000-1300 and 1400-1700. Free. Tel 253374. On the top floor of the windmill tower is a Camera Obscura. Info: Apr-Sep (also open Mar weather permitting). Mon-Sat 1000-1700, Sun 1400-1700. £1.50, £0.75 concession. Also on the west bank of the river, at the west end of the 15th-century Devorgilla Bridge, is the Old Bridge House, built in 1660 and the town's oldest house. It is now a museum of town life over the centuries. Info: Apr-Sep Mon-Sat 1000-1700, Sun 1400-1700. Free. Tel 256904.
Sleeping and eating: accommodation in Dumfries
There's no shortage of accommodation in Dumfries. Among the many hotels is the Cairndale Hotel, English St, Tel 254111, www.cairndalehotel.co.uk 91 rooms.Late Rooms Availability for Cairndale Hotel and Leisure Club in Dumfries . Though rooms are a little tired some are musty, and not very clean.
A better hotel is the newly refurbished Station Hotel, 49 Lovers Walk, Tel 254316, www.stationhotel.co.uk 32 rooms. Very handy for the train station and has a good restaurant. A short walk west of the town centre is Laurieknowe, where you'll find several places to stay, including Edenbank Hotel, Tel 252759, and Dalston House Hotel, Tel/Fax 254422, Dalston House Hotel
There are lots of wonderful guesthouses and B&Bs near the train station on Lovers Walk, such as Morton Villa, at No 28, Tel 255825; Ferintosh Guest House, at No 30, Tel 01387 252 262 is Highly recommended by several guide books Click here to see the Brilliant Ferintosh Web site; and Torbay Lodge, at No 31, Tel 253922. Also near the train station is Hazeldean House, 4 Moffat Rd, Tel 266178, Hazel Dean House There are also some nice places on the west side of the river, including The Merlin, 2 Kenmure Terr, Tel 261002, near the Burns Centre.
The best resturant in Dumfries (and recently voted best in Scotland!) is The Linen Room, 53 St. Michael St., 01387 255689. The chef is a master. The Dumfries 'Pub of the Year' is Cavens Arms, 20 Buccleuch St, 01387 252896- great food and great Real Ale. Also Rifft Valley Jazz Cafe, 24 Castle street, 01387 249911 is exceptional.
Apart from the hotels listed above, one of the best places to eat is Hullabaloo, on Mill Rd, Tel 259679, above the Burns Centre in a converted old water mill. Open Tue-Sat. For good Italian food try Bruno's, at 3 Balmoral Rd, Tel 255757. Next door and run by the same family is the Balmoral Fish & Chicken Bar, which is reputed to sell the best chips in southwest Scotland.
Open Wed-Mon 1800-2200. Another good Italian-style restaurant is the moderately priced Benvenuto, at 42 Eastfield Rd, Tel 259890; or try Mambo Italiano, 113 Queensbury St, Tel 265888. For vegetarian food try Opus, 95 Queensbury St, Tel 255752. Cheap-mid-range prices. Open Mon-Sat 0900-1700. The pubs in town all serve cheap bar meals, but the most atmospheric place is the Globe Inn, 56 High St, once frequented by a certain poet of this parish. A good place for coffees and light lunches is Pumpernickel, 60-62 Friars Vennel, Tel 254475.
Transport
There are regular buses to Kirkcudbright (Nos 76, 501, X74 ). No 500 and X75 go twice daily to Newton Stewart (1 hr 20 mins) and Stranraer (2 hrs), for the ferry to Belfast. National Express, Tel 08705-808080, runs a daily service between London and Belfast, via Dumfries and Stranraer and towns in between. Stagecoach Western, Tel 01292-613500, has 2 buses daily to and from Edinburgh (No 100; 2 hrs 20 mins). There are also regular buses to Carlisle (No 79; 50 mins) and to Moffat (No 114 or X74; 1 hr). Bus No 500 runs to Castle Douglas (45 mins) and No 246 to Cumnock, via Sanquhar (50 mins). There are also buses to Thornhill, Dalbeattie via Rockcliffe, Moniaive, Glencaple/Caerlaverock Castle and Annan via Ruthwell.
There are frequent trains Mon-Sat to and from Carlisle (35 mins) and several daily (Mon-Sat) to and from Glasgow (1 hr 30 mins), via Kilmarnock, where you change for trains to Stranraer. There's a reduced service on Sun. For all rail enquiries, Tel 08457-484950. Car hire: Arnold Clark, New Abbey Rd, Tel 247151. Open Mon-Fri 0800-1800, Sat 0830-1700, Sun 1100-1700. From £18 per day. Cycle hire: Nithsdale Cycle Centre, 46 Brooms Rd, Tel 254870. For bike repairs and parts, Kirkpatrick Cycles, 13-15 Queen St, Tel 254011. Also Riks Bike Shed in Mabie Forest .
For all bus times, call the Travel Information Line, Tel 08457-090510, or Traveline Tel 0870-6082608
Caerlaverock Castle
Eight miles from Dumfries, on the east bank of the Nith estuary where it enters the Solway Firth, is Caerlaverock Castle, everyone's idea of the perfect medieval fortress, and one of the best-preserved ruins in Scotland.
The unusual triangular-shaped castle, which dates from around 1277, was the stronghold of the Maxwells, the Wardens of the Western Marches. But though surrounded by a moat and impregnable-looking, it has fallen several times over the course of its long history. It was first besieged in 1300 by Edward I of England during the Wars of Independence and soon captured, then destroyed by Robert the Bruce.
It was repaired in the 1330s, then 300 years later refurbished in the trendy Renaissance style by Robert Maxwell, first Earl of Nithsdale. But several years later it was attacked again, this time by the Covenanters, who captured it after a 13-week siege and proceeded to trash the place. Caerlaverock was never occupied again. Info: Apr-Sep 0930-1830; Oct-Mar Mon-Sat 0930-1630, Sun 1400-1630. £2.80, 2. To get there, take Stagecoach Western bus No 371 from Dumfries. Tel 770244 (HS).
A few miles further on is the WWT Caerlaverock Wetlands Centre, an absolute must-see attraction for birdwatchers, and also recommended for those with only a passing interest in our feathered friends. The 1,350 acres of wild reserve attract many thousands of birds, most notably barnacle geese, migrating here in the winter. A series of hides and observation towers allow you to get very close to the birds, and during the summer months there are nature trails through wildflower meadows, where you may see the rare natterjack toad. There's also a Visitor Centre and a Fair-Trade coffee shop. Info: Daily 1000-1700. £4.00, children £2.50, WWT members free. Tel 770200, WWT
About seven miles east of Caerlaverock along the B724 is the turning to the little village of Ruthwell. Inside the village church is the remarkable Ruthwell Cross, which dates from the late seventh century when the whole of southern Scotland and northern England, from the Humber-Mersey line to the Forth, was controlled by the Angles. The two main faces of the 18-ft high cross are carved with religious and secular figures and bear inscriptions in both Latin and runes. Info: Free. Key to church from Mrs Coulthard. Tel 870249. Take bus No 79 from Dumfries.
Accommodation
If you want to stay in the area, the very comfortable, family-run Kirkland Country House Hotel, Tel 870284, is right next to the church. For something a bit more luxurious, try Comlongon Castle, Tel 870283, Comlongon a 14th-century, family-owned castle and adjacent mansion house hotel, which is very popular for weddings. To get there, head north from Ruthwell for about a mile to Clarencefield, where a signposted road turns left (west) for another mile to the castle. At Carrutherstown is the Hetland Hall Hotel which also has leisure facilities. Popular as a wedding venue.Late Rooms Availability for Hetland Hall Hotel near Dumfries
Nithsdale
The A76 runs northwest from Dumfries all the way to Kilmarnock in Ayrshire. Along the way are several places of interest, starting with Ellisland Farm, six miles from Dumfries. This was the home of Robert Burns from 1788 to 1791, during which time he built the farmhouse and tried to introduce new farming methods. Ultimately, this venture collapsed and he moved to Dumfries, but not before writing his famous ghost story, Tam o' Shanter, and Hogmanay favourite, Auld Lang Syne.
The farmhouse is now a museum displaying various personal items. Info: Apr-Sep Mon-Sat 1000-1300 and 1400-1700, Sun 1400-1700; Oct-Mar Tue-Sat 1000-1700. Tel 01387-740426.
Not far from there near Auldgirth is the Friars Carse Hotel, a classic country house hotel, full of character. Fishing on the river Nith available. Reasonable rates. Late Rooms Availability for Friars Carse Country House Hotel near Dumfries
Templand Cottages
Six luxury, well-equipped cottages with spectacular views of beautiful Nithsdale valley with indoor pool and sauna. Pets Welcome.
Eight miles further north is Thornhill, where the A702 heads eight miles west to the peaceful little conservation village of Moniaive. There are a couple of B&Bs in the village, including Bainoon, on the High Street, Tel 01848-200266. The George, on the High Street, is a lovely old pub for a drink and a meal. Bus No 202 runs to Moniaive from Dumfries.
A short drive from Moniaive by Glenkiln Reservoir (between Dunscore and Shawhead) is an extraordinary collection of sculptures, placed on the wild Glenkiln Estate by Sir William Keswick. There are six works in all, the easiest ones to find being John the Baptist by Rodin, which stands at the head of the reservoir, and Standing Figure by Henry Moore. There are other works by Moore as well as one by Epstein, which is hidden in a copse of Scots Pine.
A good place to stay in this area is Speddoch, a large country house, a short drive from the sculptures, which has been owned by the same family for 300 years. The family is very hospitable, there are cosy log fires and good home cooking - if you choose to eat there you'll dine with the family at night. It's a Wolsey Lodge - private homes offering accommodation where you're treated like a family guest. Tel 01387-820342, Wolsey Lodges
Four miles north of Thornhill is the turning for Drumlanrig Castle, more French château than Scottish castle. This sumptuous stately home of the Duke of Buccleuch and Queensberry is renowned for its superb art collection, which reflects the mind-boggling wealth of its owners. Included are works by such luminaries as Rembrandt, Leonardo Da Vinci, Holbein, Breughel and Van Dyck, as well as numerous family portraits by Allan Ramsay and Godfrey Kneller.
After all that you may need to clear your head with a stroll round the extensive country park. You can also hire mountain bikes and explore a network of cycle trails. There's also a bicycle museum, commemorating the fact that the bicycle was invented nearby, at Keir Mill. Info: Castle 27 Apr to 11 Aug and 24 Aug-8 Sep, gardens 27 Apr-30 Sep Mon-Sat 1100-1600, Sun 1200-1600. Tel 01848-330248, Drumlanrig Castle Drumlanrig is 1€ miles from the A76.
Seven miles north of Drumlanrig, the B797 turns right (east) off the A76 and climbs up to Wanlockhead, the highest village in Scotland. A few miles further, on the A76, is the neat little town of Sanquhar, which lies on the Southern Upland Way. Sanquhar now has a wee bookshop - for more info on Sanquhar see Sanquhar Books
South of Dumfries
South of Dumfries are some of the area's loveliest sights. The A710 runs past New and the ruins of Sweetheart Abbey, then follows the Solway Coast past the quiet little coastal villages of Rockcliffe and Kippford, before looping around to Dalbeattie, where it meets the A711 which runs from Dumfries to Kirkcudbright. Bus No 372 runs from Dumfries to Dalbeattie, stopping in New Abbey, Kirkbean, Rockcliffe and Kippford, Tel 710357.
Four miles south of Dumfries is the turn-off to Mabie Forest, a large area criss-crossed by forest paths and cycle trails. You can hire bikes at Riks Bike Shed, Tel 270275. They also run tours of the forest; daily in summer 1000-1800; winter Monday and Friday-Sunday 1000-1800. Bikes cost £10 per person per day.
Mabie Forest is a good place to take children as there are plenty of walks and cycle trails. At Mabie Farm Park, Burnside Farm there's a tea room and grass toboggan rides (well, it's different). Tel 259666. Apr-Oct Mon-Sun 1000-1700; Nov-Mar Sat, Sun 1000-1700.
New Abbey
Seven miles south of Dumfries, in the pretty little village of New Abbey, are the graceful red sandstone ruins of Sweetheart Abbey, founded by Cistercian monks in 1273. The abbey gets its name from the extreme marital devotion of its patron, Lady Devorgilla de Balliol, wife of John, who founded Balliol College, Oxford. On his death she had his heart embalmed and carried it around with her, until her own death in 1290. Now both she and the heart are buried in the presbytery.
Info: Apr-Sep daily 0930-1830; Oct-Mar Mon-Wed and Sat 0930-1630, Thu 0930-1200, Fri and Sun 1400-1630. £1.80, concession £1.30. Tel 01387-850397 (HS).
Just north of the village is Shambellie House Museum of Costume, a Victorian country house set in beautiful gardens, which houses a collection of period costumes from the late 18th to the early 20th centuries. Info: Apr-Oct daily 1100-1700. £2.50, concession £1.50. Tel 01387-850375. New Abbey is dominated by Criffel Hill (1,867 ft). One and a half miles south of the village take the turning for Ardwell Mains Farm, from where a track leads to the summit. The views from the top are magnificent, stretching all the way south to the lakes and across to the Borders.
A few miles south of New Abbey, at Kirkbean, is the turning for the John Paul Jones Cottage, birthplace of the US naval hero. It's now a small museum and includes an exhibition and audio visual of his amazing life. Info: Apr-Jun Tue-Sun 1000-1700; Jul and Aug daily 1000-1700. £2 (£1). Tel 01387-880613. South of Kirkbean, at Southerness, there's an excellent championship golf course.
Sleeping
There are a couple of places to stay on the village square; the Abbey Arms Hotel, Tel 01387-850489, Email The Abbey Arms and Criffel Inn, Tel 01387-850244. Both are also great village pubs and serve bar meals.
At Kirkbean there's the lovely Cavens Country House Hotel, a small charming country house - recommended. Late Rooms Availability for Cavens in Dumfries
Rockliffe and Kippford
The A710 turns west south of Kirkbean and parallels the Solway Coast, past the wide Sandyhills Bay to Colvend. About a mile beyond, a side road turns off to the little village of Rockcliffe, nestled in a beautiful rocky cove at the mouth of the Urr estuary. From Rockcliffe you can walk about 1€ miles to neighbouring Kippford, a popular sailing centre, along the Jubilee Path (NTS). The path passes the Mote of Mark, an ancient Celtic hillfort. Another path runs south from Rockcliffe along the cliff tops, to Castlehill Point. From Kippford, at low tide, you can walk across the causeway to Rough Island, a 20-acre offshore bird sanctuary owned by the NTS. During May and June, when the terns and oystercatchers are nesting, it's out of bounds.
Sleeping and eating
There's a decent choice of accommodation along this stretch of coast. In Rockcliffe is the very fine Barons Craig Hotel, Tel 630225, Baronscraighotel and the more modest Millbrae House, Tel 630217. In Kippford is the Anchor Hotel, Tel 620205, which also serves superb pub food and is the perfect spot for a great pint of real ale after the walk from Rockcliffe. Also in Kippford is Rosemount Guest House, Tel 620214. At Sandyhills, a couple of miles east on the A710, is the baronial splendour of Craigbittern House, Tel 01387-780247 and the comfortable Cairngill House Hotel, Tel 01387-780681.
There are also a few campsites in the area, including Kippford Holiday Park, Tel/Fax 620636, Kippford Holiday Park and Castle Point Caravan Site, Tel 630248, open Mar-Oct, near Rockcliffe.
Beyond the turnings to Rockcliffe and Kippford is the town of Dalbeattie, where there's a decent range of shops. Three miles north of town is the Mote of Urr, a 12th-century motte-and-bailey castle. About four miles south, near Palnackie, is the turn-off for the 15th-century Orchardton Tower, the only circular tower house in Scotland. On the first Sat in August Palnackie hosts the World Flounder Tramping Championships, an unusual event which involves trying to catch the biggest flounder - with your feet!
From Dalbeattie the A711 runs southwest to Kirkcudbright, and the A745 heads west to Castle Douglas, about five miles away.
Festivals
Dumfries hosts quite a few festivals throughout the year, including the Dumfries Book Fair at the beginning of May and Guid Nychburris Festival in the middle of June, which features a week of entertainment and ceremonies. On the 2nd Sat in August is the Dumfries & Lockerbie Agricultural Show. For a full list of dates, check with the tourist office.