Durness To Thurso
Contents |
From Durness to Thurso
The road east from Durness runs around Loch Eriboll on its way to the lovely little village of Tongue. A causeway runs across the beautiful Kyle of Tongue, but a much more scenic route is the single-track road around its southern side, with great views of Ben Hope (3,041 ft) looming to the southwest. The village of Tongue is overlooked by the 14th-century ruins of Varick Castle, and there's a great beach at Coldbackie, two miles northeast. Phone code: +44 (0)1847
Sleeping and eating
The Duke of Sutherland shooting lodge transformed into a four star hotel in remotest Sutherland in Northern Scotland. details about Tongue Hotel
There are several places to stay in Tongue. The Tongue Hotel, Tel. 611206, is a former hunting lodge of the Duke of Sutherland. It overlooks the Kyle of Tongue and does good food. Also recommended for its food is the excellent Ben Loyal Hotel , Tel. 611216, Thebenloyalhotel@byinternet.com There are cheaper options, such as the excellent-value Rhian Cottage, Tel. 611257, jenny.anderson@ tesco.net There's also a good F SYHA Youth Hostel, Tel. 611301, open mid-Mar to late Oct, beautifully situated at the east end of the causeway; and a couple of campsites: one is at Talmine, Tel. 601225, 5 miles north of Tongue by the beach; and the Kincraig Camping and Caravan Site, Tel. 611218, just to the south of the village. Also at Talmine is the lovely 19th-century Cloisters, Tel. 601286, reception@cloisteral.demon.co.uk
Remote hotel in Sutherland north of Inverness. Ideal for the fisherman or sports enthusiast with days in the wild and nights before the fire.more details about Forsinard Hotel
Bettyhill
The A836 runs south from Tongue, through Altnaharra, to Lairg. It also continues east to the crofting community of Bettyhill, named after the Countess of Sutherland who ruthlessly evicted her tenants from their homes in Strathnaver to make way for more profitable sheep. The whole sorry saga is told in the interesting Strathnaver Museum, housed in an old church in the village. There are also Pictish stones in the churchyard behind the museum. Info - Apr-Oct Mon-Sat 1000-1300 and 1400-1700. Tel. 521418.
The museum sells a leaflet detailing the many prehistoric sites in the Strathnaver valley which runs due south from Bettyhill. The B871 then branches southeast to meet the A897 to Helmsdale. There are a couple of great beaches around Bettyhill, at Farr Bay and at Torrisdale Bay, which is the more impressive of the two and forms part of the Invernaver Nature Reserve.
There's a small Tourist Information Centre in Bettyhill, Tel. 521342, open Easter-September Monday-Saturday.
Sleeping and eating
The Farr Bay Inn, Tel. 521230, www.bettyhill.com, does decent bar food. A good value B&B is Bruachmor, Tel. 521265, open Apr-Oct.
Comfortable bedrooms in a traditional fashion (some ensuite and some with superb sea views)more details about Bettyhill Hotel
Melvich & Dounreay
East from Bettyhill the hills of Sutherland begin to give way to the fields of Caithness. The road passes the turn-off to Strathy Point before reaching Melvich, another wee crofting settlement overlooking a lovely sandy bay.
South from Melvich the A897 heads to Helmsdale through the Flow Country, a vast expanse of bleak bog of major ecological importance. About 15 miles south of Melvich, at Forsinard, is an RSPB Visitor Centre. The peatlands here are a breeding ground for black- and red-throated divers, golden plovers and merlins as well as other species. Otters and roe deer can also be spotted. Info - Easter-Oct daily 0900-1800. Guided walks through the nature reserve leave from the visitor centre. Tel. 01641-571225.
The north coast of Scotland is ideally suited to the more active type of tourist, and 10 miles west of Thurso you might say that the radioactive tourist is catered for at the Dounreay Nuclear Power Station. Though its fast breeder reactors were decommissioned in 1994, the plant is still a major local employer and now reprocesses spent nuclear fuel. There's a permanent exhibition at the visitor centre, where you learn all about the 'benefits' of nuclear power. Info - Easter-Sep daily 1000-1700. Free. Tel. 01847-802572.
Sleeping and eating
There's some excellent accommodation in Melvich, including Bighouse Lodge, Tel. 01641-531207, open May-Oct, an 18th-century mansion sitting at the mouth of the Halladale river in 4 acres of its own grounds. Also recommended is Shieling Guest House, Tel./Fax. 01641-531256, theshieling@btinternet.com, open Apr-Oct.
The Halldale Inn Melvich 01641-531282 offers home cooked food 7 days a week. There is a small campsite next door which has a 4 star rating by Visit Scotland.