Kyle Of Lochalsh
Kyle Of Lochalsh | Mallaig| The Great Glen
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The Road To The Isles
The 46-mile stretch of the A830 from Fort William to Mallaig is known as 'The Road to the Isles'. It's a very beautiful journey, particularly by train through a landscape that resonates with historical significance. This is Bonnie Prince Charlie country, where the ill-fated Jacobite Rising not only began, but also ended, with the Prince's flight to France.
Glenfinnan
It all started on 19 August 1745 at Glenfinnan, 17 miles west of Fort William at the head of Loch Shiel. Less than a month earlier, Prince Charles Edward Stuart had landed on the Scottish mainland for the first time, on the shores of Loch nan Uamh, between Lochailort and Arisaig (see below). He had come to claim the British throne for his father, James, son of the exiled King James VII of Scotland and II of England.
The clan chiefs had expected French support, but when the Prince arrived with only a handful of men they were reluctant to join the cause. Undeterred, the prince raised his standard and his faith was soon rewarded when he heard the sound of the pipes and Cameron of Lochiel, along with 800 men, came marching down the valley to join them. It must have been an incredible moment.
There's a powerful sense of history here. You don't have to be Scottish to feel a shiver run down the spine and a tear well in the eye as you gaze across stunning Loch Shiel stretching into the distance, veiled by steep mountains. You can almost hear the wail of the bagpipes in the distance. A commemorative tower stands proudly at the head of the loch, erected in 1815 by Alexander MacDonald of Glenaladale in memory of the clansmen who fought and died for the Prince. You can climb to the top of the tower (mind your head, though) for even better views down the loch. The Glenfinnan Games are held here in mid-August.
On the other side of the road is the National Trust for Scotland visitor centre, which has displays and an audio programme of the Prince's campaign, from Glenfinnan to its grim conclusion at Culloden. There's also a café. Info - Apr-Oct daily 1000-1700, Jul-Aug 0930-1730, Nov weekends only 1000-1600, £3, concession £2. Tel:722250.
A mile away, in Glenfinnan village, is the Station Museum, which is housed in the railway station on the magnificent Fort-William to Mallaig railway line. It has displays of memorabilia from the line's 100-year history. Info - Jun-Oct daily 0930-1630, other times by appointment, £0.50. Tel. 722295. You can also sleep and eat here (see below). The 1,000-ft span of the Glenfinnan viaduct, between the visitor centre and the village, is one of the most spectacular sections of the famous West Highland Railway.
You can take a cruise down Loch Shiel, from Glenfinnan to Acharacle (see above) at its southern end. Contact Loch Shiel Cruises at the Glenfinnan House Hotel (see below). There are sailings most days from April to October.
Phone code: +44 (0)1397
Sleeping and eating
On the main road, half a mile past the monument on the right, heading west, is The Prince's House, Tel. 722246, Fax. 722307, princeshouse@ glenfinnan.co.uk 9 rooms, open Mar-Nov. Comfortable old coaching inn which offers good food (mid-range).
Just off the main road is Glenfinnan House Hotel, Tel./Fax. 722235. 17 rooms, open Apr-Oct. Historic house with lots of charm, which is more than can be said for the staff. Overpriced. Dinner served from 1930 (expensive to mid-range for 4 courses). You can also walk in the vast grounds or fish on the loch. A much cheaper option is the Glenfinnan Sleeping Car, at the train station, Tel. 722400. Bunkhouse accommodation for 10 people, also mountain bike hire. You can eat here, too, in the Glenfinnan Dining Car (cheap 2-course lunch; mid-range 3-course dinner).
Lochailort
About 10 miles west of Glenfinnan the road passes through the village of Lochailort, where the A861 branches south to the remote Ardnamurchan Peninsula (see above). There's accommodation and food here at the D Lochailort Inn, Tel. 470208, open March-October.
A couple of miles further on, is Loch nan Uamh, where Prince Charles first landed on the Scottish mainland and from where, a year later, he fled for France following the disastrous defeat at Culloden. A path leads down from the car park to the Prince's Cairn, which marks the beginning and the end of the Jacobite cause.
Phone code: +44 (0)1687
Arisaig & Morar
At the western end of the Morar Peninsula is the little village of Arisaig, scattered round the bay. This is said to be the birthplace of Long John Silver, who worked on the construction of the nearby lighthouse at Barrahead, which happened to be one of many such lighthouses designed by the father of Robert Louis Stevenson. Silver met Robert Louis on a few occasions, and so impressed the young writer that he immortalized him in his classic novel Treasure Island.
There are some nice beaches around, and the road west from the village out to the Rhue Peninsula is great for seal spotting. You can also take a cruise from Arisaig to the islands of Rùm, Eigg and Muck. Info - There are sailings daily Mon-Fri, and also Sat-Sun during the summer months. For details contact Arisaig Marine, Tel. 01687-450224.
Between Arisaig and Morar is a string of glorious beaches of white sand backed by beautiful machair, washed by turquoise seas and enjoying magnificent views across to Rùm and the Cuillins of Skye. This is one of the most stunning stretches of coastline in Britain. Five miles north of Arisaig is Morar, and on the way you pass the silver sands of Camusdarach where the famous beach scenes from the movie Local Hero were filmed.
This coastline gets very busy in summer but, like so much of the Highlands, it's easy to get away from it all. A single-track road leads up behind the village of Morar to dark, mysterious Loch Morar, the deepest inland loch in the country and home of Morag, Scotland's other, lesser-known monster. Two locals reported seeing her in August 1969 and a scientific investigation two years later uncovered a remarkable number of eye-witness accounts. You could always try to elicit further information from the locals over a wee dram in the bar of the Morar Hotel. The road runs along the north shore of the loch for three miles till it reaches the pretty little hamlets of Bracora and Bracorina. Here the road stops, but a footpath continues all the way to Tarbet on the shores of Loch Nevis, from where it's possible to catch a boat back to Mallaig (see below). It takes about three hours to walk to Tarbet (where there's now a bothy), and you'll need to get there by 1530 for the boat.
Phone code: +44 (0)1687
Sleeping and eating in Arisaig
Arisaig has plenty of accommodation and a decent range of services. There are two hotels, 'Cnoc na Faire Hotel', tel: 01687-450249 'Arisaig Hotel', Tel. 01687-450210, arisaighotel @dial.pipex.com They serve moderately priced food 1200-1400 and 1800-2100. A good restaurant is The Old Library Lodge, Tel. 450651, open Apr-Oct, which also has rooms. Arisaig House Self Catering Luxury self-catering accommodation set in the mature grounds of Arisaig House properties available sleep up to 8 persons, to the North of Skye on the West Coast of Scotland.
Self Catering Cottages in Kyle of Lochalsh
- INVERINATE (near Kyle) - Ross-shire Sleeps 6
- AVERNISH (by Kyle) - Sea Crest - Ross-shire Sleeps 4
- AVERNISH (by Kyle) - Sea Nymph - Ross-shire Sleeps 5
- Ceol na Mara Sleeps 2
- Fernhill Cottage Sleeps 4