Musselburgh
Musselburgh Guide
Introduction | Musselburgh | North Berwick | Dunbar | Haddington
Introduction to Musselburgh
Six miles east of Edinburgh, across the River Esk, is the town of Musselburgh. It's a fairly humdrum place, but may be of interest to golfing enthusiasts as the original home of golf; Royal Musselbugh is one of the oldest clubs in the country. It is also a target for naturalists who come to see the huge populations of migrating waders, ducks and seabirds which flock to the mouth of the River Esk. Ice cream lovers may also be interested to note that Luca's on the High Street has most of the competition licked and is definitely worth a stop if you're passing by. There's also a Tourist Information Centre, just off the A1 at Old Craighall, Tel 0131 6536172. Open October-March Monday-Saturday 0900-1700; April/May Monday-Saturday 0900-1800; June/September Monday-Saturday 0900-1800, Sunday 1000-1500; July Monday-Saturday 0900-1900; August Monday-Saturday 0900-2000, Sunday 1000-1600.
Ten miles east of Musselburgh is the conservation village of Aberlady, at the mouth of the River Peffer. A row of Georgian cottages lines the main street and there's a lovely old church which hints at Aberlady's erstwhile importance as a port. The old harbour is silted up and now forms part of the mudflats and salt marshes of the Aberlady Bay Nature Reserve, which is the home of numerous seabirds. A couple of miles north of Aberlady is Gullane, a resort town with an exclusive air which is hopelessly devoted to golf. There are no fewer than four golf courses surrounding Gullane; Nos 1, 2 and 3 and the world-famous Muirfield, where you need an introduction to play. Golf may be Gullane's raison d'être, but windsurfing has recently been gaining in popularity.
Between Gullane and North Berwick is the attractive little village of Dirleton, dominated by the ruins of Dirleton Castle. The original castle dates from the 12th century and was added to over the following three centuries, until it was destroyed by Cromwell's army. The very lovely gardens, which date from the 16th century, are well worth a visit.
Apr-Sep daily 0930-1830; Oct-Mar Mon-Sat 0930-1630, Sun 1400-1630. T01620-850330 (HS). At the eastern end of the village a road runs north for a mile or so to Yellowcraigs, where there's a lovely clean beach and views across to Fidra island.
Eating and sleeping
In Aberlady is the Old Aberlady Inn, Tel 01875-870503, on the main street. A cosy wee place to stay, with good food and ales in its traditional bar.
Also on the Main Street is the Kilspindie House Hotel, with it's excellent (though not cheap) restaurant, Ducks. Late Rooms Availability for Kilspindie House Hotel in Aberlady
There's also a campsite, Tel 01875-870666, open Mar-Oct, just outside Aberlady on the Haddington Rd.
Charming Victorian property in the Seaside Town of Joppa with ample parking and ideally situated as a base to Explore Edinburgh and East Lothian more details about Straven
There are several hotels and B&Bs in Gullane, but pick of the bunch is undoubtedly the Greywalls Hotel, Tel 01620-842144, open Apr-Oct, a supremely charming and elegant Edwardian country house designed by Sir Edwin Lutyens. It overlooks Muirfied golf course and has an enviable reputation for superb cuisine (expensive). If you can't afford a meal, call in for tea and shortbread. It's not cheap (around £7.50), but it does give you a chance to enjoy the house - and the lovely gardens designed by Gertrude Jekyll. The best place to eat in Gullane, or anywhere else in Southeast Scotland outside Edinburgh, was always La Pontinière, Tel 01620-843214, on the main street. If you can't get a table, you can always head for The Old Clubhouse, Tel 01620-842008, a pleasant bar/bistro just off the main street. Open till 2200; mid-range prices.
In Dirleton is the enticingly named Open Arms Hotel, Tel 01620-850241. A traditional country house hotel opposite the castle, it's a friendly and comfortable place with a highly rated, and expensive, restaurant. Across the Green is the much cheaper Castle Inn, Tel 01620-850221.