North Ullapool
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North of Ullapool
North of Ullapool you enter a different world. The landscape becomes ever more dramatic and unreal - a huge emptiness of bleak moorland punctuated by isolated peaks and shimmering lochs. A narrow and tortuously twisting road winds its way up the coast, past deserted beaches of sparkling white sand washed by turquoise sea. There's not much tourist traffic this far north and once you get off the main road and on to the backroads, you can enjoy the wonderful sensation of having all this astonishingly beautiful scenery to yourself.
The region immediately north of Ullapool is called Assynt, and is heaven for serious hill walkers and climbers. Though most are not Munros, and not particularly difficult by Scottish standards, they can attract some of the worst weather imaginable, even in the height of summer. Also remember to check locally regarding access during the deer-stalking season which runs from mid-August to mid-October. Amongst the most spectacular of Assynt's distinctive 'island peaks' are Suilven (2,398 ft), Ben More Assynt (3,275 ft), Quinag (2,650 ft) and Canisp (2,775 ft). Much of this region is protected in the Inverpolly and Inchnadamph National Nature Reserves, home to an extremely rich and diverse wildlife. We have more details about the local climbing and Munros
Inverpolly National Nature Reserve
About 12 miles north of Ullapool on the main A835 is the exceptional SNH Visitor Centre at Knockan Crag. It's an interactive display of the geology, flora and fauna of the area and is open all year round 24 hours a day, Tel. 666234. From the visitor centre there's a marked trail which leads up to the Crag, and the views from the clifftop are excellent, across to Inverpolly's 'island' peaks of Cul Mór, Cul Beag and Stac Pollaidh.
A few miles north of here is the village of Knockan, with accommodation at E Assynt Guided Holidays, Tel. 666215, open mid-May to mid-Oct. Nearby, at Elphin, is the Highland and Rare Breeds Farm (open mid-May to end of Sep, daily 1000-1700). Beyond Elphin is Ledmore, where the A837 branches east towards Lairg and Bonar Bridge. There's a good craft shop at Ledmore where you can buy hand-knitted sweaters.
Between Ullapool and Knockan Crag is the turn-off west (left) to the distinctive craggy peak of Stac Pollaidh. A new path has been recently established by the John Muir Trust, which takes you on a circular walk around the peak from the car park. Take the right-hand path and go round at the same level, or climb up the rear to the top, go around the summit and descend by the same path. You'll need a head for heights to reach the summit as much of the route is exposed, but the stunning views are worth it. Be careful not to stray from the path; it's been put there because of the damage inflicted by tens of thousands of pairs of boots each year, resulting in serious erosion on the south face. It's a fairly easy 2 1/2 hour walk.
Phone code: +44 (0)1854 OS Landranger No 15
Achiltibuie
The unclassified single-track road winds its way west past Stac Pollaidh to the turn-off for Achiltibuie. This old crofting village, with whitewashed cottages set back from the sea views across to the beautiful Summer Isles , is home to one of the northwest's main tourist attractions. The Hydroponicum, or 'Garden of the Future', is a gigantic greenhouse which is pioneering the system of hydroponics to grow plants from all over the world. Hydroponics uses water instead of soil to carry nutrients to the plants and can be carried out anywhere. Here you can see an incredible variety of subtropical trees, orchids, flowers, vegetables, herbs and fruits. A guided tour takes you through the different climatic zones, and you can taste their produce, including the famous strawberries, in the Lilypond Café, which serves meals and snacks.
Info -Apr-Sep daily 1000-1800, guided tours every hour on the hour, Oct Mon-Fri 1130-1530, £5.50, concession £4.50, children £3.50. Tel. 622202.
Another worthwhile attraction is the Achiltibuie Smokehouse, five miles to the north, at Altandhu.[1] Here you can watch the salmon, herring, trout and other fish being cured before buying some afterwards. Info - May-Sep Mon-Sat 0930-1700. Free. Tel. 622353.
Phone code: +44 (0)1854
Sleeping and eating
Near the Hydroponicum is the Summer Isles Hotel, Tel. 622282, Fax. 622251, summerislesyhotel@aol.com Open Easter-Oct, which enjoys magnificent views across to the Summer Isles. It also boasts an excellent restaurant (expensive). Even if you're not staying or eating here, it's worth stopping to have a drink on the terrace and watch the sun set over the islands.
The basic but very cheap SYHA Youth Hostel is a few miles south at Achininver, Tel. 622254; open mid-May to early Oct.
There are also several B&Bs in Achiltibuie.
Self Catering Cottage with amazing views over the Summer Isles fantastic living space more details about Windyhill
Tours
Those inviting Summer Isles lying offshore can be visited from Achiltibuie pier on board the Hectoria. Cruises leave Mon-Sat at 1030 and 1415 and last 3€ hrs, with 1 hr ashore on the islands. To book, contact I Macleod at Achiltibuie Post Office, Tel. 622200, or at home, Tel. 622315. Cruises cost £12 per person (half price for children). There are also deep-sea angling trips (1800-2100) which cost £6 per person and £15 per rod.
Transport
There are 2 buses daily (Mon-Thu) to Ullapool with Spa Coaches, Tel. 01997-421311, leaving Achiltibuie Post Office at 0800 and 1300. The early bus starts in Reiff (at 0740) and the other one leaves from Badenscallie. The journey takes an hour. There's also a bus on Sat, leaving at 0750.
Lochinver
The road from Achiltibuie north to Lochinver is known locally as the 'wee mad road', and you'd be mad to miss this thrilling route which twists and winds its way through some the northwest's most stunning scenery. The village of Lochinver is a working fishing port and the last sizeable village before Thurso. It has a good tourist office (see below), lots of accommodation, a bank with ATM, post office and petrol station.
Phone code: +44 (0)1571
Ins & outs
There's a Postbus service from Lochinver to and from Drumbeg, via the coast road, which continues to Lairg. It runs once a day, Mon-Sat. There are also buses to and from Drumbeg and on to Ullapool, once or twice daily except Sun, with Rapsons of Brora, Tel. 01408-621245, and Spa Coaches, Tel. 01997-421311.
Sights
The best place to start is the Assynt Visitor Centre, which houses the Tourist Information Centre. It has displays on the local geology, history and wildlife and there's also a ranger service with guided walks throughout the summer. Info - The centre is open Apr-Oct Mon-Fri 1000-1700 and Sun 1000-1600. Tel. 844330. Those looking for local souvenirs should head for Highland Stoneware, Tel. 844376, www.highlandtrail.co.uk/stoneware.html, a local pottery factory just outside the village on the road north.
A few miles south of Lochinver, beyond Inverkirkaig, is the trail along the river to the Kirkaig Falls. The path starts near the Achins Bookshop, Tel. 844262, which has a good stock of Scottish titles and a café. Follow the path for about two miles till it branches right to the falls in the gorge below. Continue along the main path for about another � mile till you reach Fionn Loch, with superb views of mighty Suilven. The walk up to the falls and back should take around 1 1/2 hours. This is one of the main approaches to the foot of the mountain.
Sleeping & Eating
Inver Lodge Hotel, Iolaire Rd, Tel. 844496, Fax. 844395, inverlodge@compuserve.com 20 rooms, open Apr-Oct. A modern luxury hotel standing above the village with great views and excellent restaurant (lunch mid-range; dinner expensive). L The Albannach Hotel, at Baddidaroch, Tel. 844407, Fax. 844285. This wonderful 18th-century house overlooking Loch Inver is one of the very best places to stay in the northwest, and the food offered in the award-winning restaurant is sublime. The price includes dinner. Non-residents are also welcome but booking is essential.
There are many comfortable guesthouses and B&Bs, including E Ardglas Guest House, Tel. 844257, ardglass@ btinternet.com; and E Polcraig, Tel. 844429, cathelmac@aol.com; E Davar, Tel. 844501, open Mar-Oct; and E Tigh-Na-Sith, Tel. 844740; open Apr-Sep.
Apart from the hotels listed above, the best food can be found at Lochinver's Larder Riverside Bistro, Tel. 844356, on the way into town on the A837. You can eat in or takeaway and prices are mid-range. Nearby is the cheap and cheerful Caberfeidh, Tel. 844321.
Self Catering Cottages in Lochinver
- ACHMELVICH (near Lochinver) - Sutherland Sleeps 6
- ACHMELVICH (near Lochinver) - Sutherland Sleeps 7
- ACHMELVICH (Near LOCHINVER) - Sutherland Sleeps 5
- The Old Dairy Cottage Sleeps 5