Torridon
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Torridon
Torridon is perhaps the most striking skyline in the Scottish Highlands. The multi-peaked mountains of Beinn Alligin, Liathach (pronounced 'Lee-ahakh') and Beinn Eighe ('Ben-eay') form a massive fortress of turrets, spires and pinnacles that provides an awesome backdrop to Loch Torridon, as well as the most exhilarating walking and climbing on the Scottish mainland. The straggly little village of Torrindon makes the ideal base from which to tackle these mountains.
The coast road from Applecross meets the A896 from Lochcarron at the lovely little village of Shieldaig on the southern shore of Loch Torridon. There's a shop, a post office, a campsite, a couple of B&Bs and the B Tigh-an-Eilean Hotel, Tel. 01520-755251, where you can get reasonable meals.
Several miles east, a side road turns off the A896 by Torridon village and winds its way along the northern shore of the loch, then climbs through dramatic scenery before dropping to the beautiful little village of Diabaig (pronounced 'Jee-a-beg'), 10 miles from Torridon village. It's a worthwhile side trip, as the views across to the Applecross peninsula and Raasay are fantastic. There's also a great seven-mile coastal walk from Diabaig to Redpoint.
Much of the Torridon massif is in the care of the National Trust for Scotland, and just before Torridon village is the NTS countryside centre, Tel. 791221, where you can get information and advice on walks in the area, as well as books and maps. About 400 yards past the centre is the Deer Museum, which has a small display describing the management of red deer in the Highlands as well as some live specimens outside.
Phone code: +44 (0)1445
Sleeping
About a mile south of the turn-off to Torridon village is the magnificent L Loch Torridon Hotel, Tel. 791242, Fax. 791296, www.lochtorridonhotel.com 19 ensuite rooms. Open all year. This fairytale Gothic pile sits on the lochside surrounded by majestic mountains and offers the ultimate in style and comfort. It also boasts one of the finest restaurants in the area (expensive). There are several B&Bs, including the excellent E Upper Diabaig Farm, Tel. 790227, open Apr-Sep, in Upper Diabaig. There are also a couple of F SYHA hostels. One is in Torridon village, Tel. 791284, open 29 Jan-31 Oct, with an adjacent campsite. The other is much smaller and more basic, 4 miles north of Diabaig on the trail to Redpoint, at the disused crofting township of Craig (no phone; open 14 May-3 Oct).
Transport
The Postbus from Applecross to Shieldaig continues to Torridon village (see above). There's a postbus from Strathcarron station at 0955 which arrives in Shieldaig at 1040. Duncan Maclennan buses (Tel. 01520-755239) have a service which leaves Strathcarron at 1230 and arrives in Torridon at 1330 (daily except Sun). There's also a daily (Mon-Sat) Postbus service from Diabaig to Kinlochewe and Achnasheen, via Torridon, at 0955. There are also Duncan Maclennan buses between Torridon and Shieldaig and Strathcarron.
Walking around Torridon
Torridon offers some of the most spectacular walking on the Scottish mainland but also presents some of the most serious challenges. You need to be fit, experienced and well prepared and also be aware of the notoriously unpredictable weather. You should have a compass and the relevant map. Beinn Eighe (3,309 ft) has nine peaks and is the largest of the Torridon mountains. To traverse its ridge is a mighty undertaking and can take two days. A much shorter and easier walk around the base of the mountain is described below, under Beinn Eighe National Nature Reserve.
For those who are not experienced hill walkers, there's a Ranger Service for visitors. During July and August the ranger, Seamus McNally, takes guided walks up into the mountains three times a week. For more details call, Tel. 791221. A recommended local mountain guide is Steve Chadwick, Tel. 712455.
Beinn Alligin
Beinn Alligin (3,232 ft) is the most westerly of the Torridon peaks and probably the least demanding. The Allt a'Bhealaich Walk is a steep but short walk of about two hours. It starts from the car park just beyond the stone bridge that crosses the Abhainn Coire Mhic Nobuil. Follow the path that runs beside the river gorge until you reach the first bridge, cross it and follow the east bank of the Allt a' Bhealaich burn. Higher up, cross the second bridge and continue to follow the track up to the 380-m contour line, then turn back retracing your steps. This walk doesn't include the ascent of the peak but the views are magnificent. Those who wish to climb the three Horns of Beinn Alligin can continue from the 380-m contour line above the second bridge. The track that follows their ridge is exposed and requires rock scrambling experience.
Liathach
Seven-peaked Liathach (3,460 ft) stretches over five miles, and the magnificent ridge walk is considered by many to be the most impressive in Britain. This walk requires a high level of stamina and will take at least seven to eight hours. It also helps if you have a car waiting at the end.
A good place to start this long and strenuous challenge is about half a mile or so east of Glen Cottage, which is just over two miles east of the Countryside Centre. A steep climb takes you to a point just west of Stuc a'Choire Dhuibh Bhig (3,000 ft). Then retrace your route to climb the twin tops of Bidein Toll a'Mhuic (3,200 ft), linked by a narrow ridge. The path from here descends to the head of a deep ravine and keeps to the crest of the ridge around the rim of Coireag Dubh Beag which plunges steeply to the north. The ridge then rises across a field of huge and unstable boulders to the highest peak - Spidean a'Choire Leith. The view from this point is stunning, with Coire na Caime before you, surrounded by 2,000 ft sheer cliffs. From here, the path follows a narrow exposed ridge for over a mile towards Mullach an Rathain (3,358 ft).
Unless you are an experienced scrambler with a good head for heights, the best way from here is to take the path to the south, below the sharp pinnacles. Beyond the pinnacles the climb to Mullach an Rathain is straightforward. The track from here to Sgorr a'Chadail is a long but fairly easy walk and ends on the path in Coire Mhic Nobuil (see Beinn Alligin above).
Coire Walk
A less difficult walk, but still requiring a fair degree of fitness and taking most of the day, is the Coire Walk. It follows the River Coire Mhic Nobuil to its watershed and down again by the Allt a'Choire Dhuibh Mhoir to the main road in Glen Torridon. Again, two cars will shorten the distance considerably.
The walk starts at the same point as the Beinn Alligin walk above. It follows the path up to the first bridge then branches east and continues on the path that runs north of the river, all the way to its source in the pass between Liathach and Beinn Dearg. Here the ground is boggy between the string of pools and lochans and the path is less distinct, but it becomes clear again in the upper reaches of the Coire Dubh Mor, a huge gully that separates Liathach from Beinn Eighe.
A little further on, the track joins a stalkers' path which curves round Sail Mhor to the famous Coire Mhic Fhearchair, considered to be the most spectacular corrie in Scotland (see Beinn Eighe below). The Coire path leads to a ford, which is crossed by stepping stones, then descends following the west side of the burn down to the car park on the Torridon road, from where it's about 4.5 miles to Torridon village.
Diabaig to Red Point Walk
An excellent low-level coastal walk is from Diabaig to Redpoint. It is far less strenuous or daunting than the others described above and there is a clear path. It starts at the wooden gate to the right of the post office in Diabaig and ends at Red Point Farm, seven miles away.
After four miles the coastal path reaches the derelict croft houses in the Craig valley. One of these has been converted into a SYHA Hostel (see 'Sleeping' above). There are two possible routes from here. You can follow the footpath above the coastline, or leave the footpath after crossing the wooden bridge over the Craig river and climb through an area of woodland. Take a reference from your OS map and you'll reach the highest point, Meall na h-Uamha, from where there are superb views.
You can then descend to rejoin the coastal path and continue till you reach the glorious golden sands of Red Point, with wonderful views across to Skye and Raasay. Keep to the path through the farm till you reach the car park. Unless you've arranged your own transport here, you'll have to walk back the way you came, or catch the schoolbus to Gairloch.