Wester Ross
Torridon | Loch Maree | Gairloch | Around Gairloch | Ullapool
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Wester Ross
From Loch Carron north to Ullapool, is the region of Wester Ross, an area of dramatic mountain massifs, fjord-like sea lochs and remote coastal villages. Here lies some of Europe's most spectacular scenery, from the isolated peninsula of Applecross to the mighty peaks of Torridon, which offer some of Scotland's best climbing and hillwalking. There are also gentler attractions such as the magnificent gardens at Inverewe and the beautiful pink sands of Gruinard Bay.
East from Plockton
East of Plockton, just before the road meets the A890 at Achmore is the West Highland Dairy, where you can pick up some good local cheese for a picnic (if the weather's fine). The road passes the turn-off for Stromeferry and continues along the east shore of Loch Carron to Strathcarron at its northeastern end, on the Inverness to Kyle of Lochalsh rail line.
Sleeping
There's B&B accommodation at E The Shieling, Tel. 01520-722364, open April-October, by the rail station; and at F Achnashellach Hostel, Tel. 01520-766232.
Transport
There's a postbus service from Strathcarron to Shieldaig and Torridon twice a day Mon-Sat.
About a mile further on you come to a road junction. The A890 heads right (east) through Glen Carron to Achnasheen, where it meets the A832 nine miles east of Kinlochewe. The A832 then continues east till it meets the main A835 which connects Ullapool with the A9 north of Inverness. The A896 meanwhile heads left (west) to Lochcarron.
Lochcarron
Lochcarron village consists of little more than a main street along the shore of the loch, but it has more facilities and services than most other places in these parts. Here you should take the opportunity to withdraw cash at the Bank of Scotland ATM, fill up with petrol and buy some supplies at the small self-service store. There's also a Tourist Information Centre, Tel. 722357, which will provide details of the many excellent walks in the surrounding hills; it's open April-October.
For guided walks around Lochcarron, contact Island Horizons, Kirkton Road, Tel. 722238. Or use the Lochcarron walks website. Two miles south of the village on the road to the 15th-century ruins of Strome Castle is Lochcarron Weavers, where you can see tartan being made and also buy from a vast range of woven goods.
Phone code: +44 (0)1520
Sleeping and eating
There's a wide range of accommodation and several places to eat. Best of the bunch is the D Rockvilla Hotel & Restaurant, Tel. 722379, rockvilla@btinternet.com This small, family-run hotel offers very good food at cheap-mid-range prices. There are lots of B&Bs, including E Bank House, Tel. 722332, in the same building as the Bank of Scotland. About 5 mins' drive from the village, across the loch on the A890, is the excellent Carron Restaurant, Tel. 722488, mid-range prices.
Applecross
West of Lochcarron at Loch Kishorn, a side road leaves the A896 and heads to Applecross. There are many scenic routes in the Highlands but this one beats them all. The Bealach na Ba ('Pass of the Cattle') is the highest road in Scotland and is often closed during the winter snows. It climbs relentlessly and dramatically through a series of tortuous switchbacks - both spectacular and terrifying in equal measure. The high plateau, at 2,053 ft, is cold and desolate, but from here you have the most stunning views: from Ardnamurchan Peninsula to Loch Torridon, taking in Eigg, Rùm, the Cuillins of Skye, the Old Man of Storr and the Quirang.
The narrow, single-track road then begins its gradual descent to the isolated little village of Applecross, site of one Scotland's first Christian monasteries, founded in 673 AD. The village consists of a row of whitewashed fishermen's cottages looking across to the island of Raasay and backed by wooded slopes. It's a beautifully tranquil place where you can explore beaches and rock pools or enjoy a stroll along sylvan lanes - see Applecross walks for details.
Phone code: +44 (0)1520
Sleeping and eating
The reason many people make the long detour is to savour the delights of the venerable E Applecross Inn, Tel. 744262. There are, sadly, too few authentic Highland hostelries where you could quite happily while away a few hours, or even an entire afternoon, but if you have to be holed up somewhere to escape the rotten weather, then this place is as good as any and better than most. The welcome is warm, the crack is good and the seafood is so fresh you can almost see it swimming past as you order (try a half pint of prawns for a fiver or scallops for £7.50). Bar food served 1200-2100, children welcome till 2030, ceilidhs on Fri evening. The rooms upstairs are nothing fancy, but comfortable, with sea views.
If there's no room at the Inn there are a few B&Bs a mile to the south in the village of Camusteel: E Mrs Cross, 'Seawinds', Tel. 744373; F Mrs Thompson, 'Raon-Mor', Tel. 744260, open Apr-Oct. Just before Applecross is a bakery with a poly-tunnel sheltered restaurant which serves good cheap light meals.
Transport
It's possible to reach Applecross by public transport, but only just. A Postbus service leaves Strathcarron train station daily (except Sun) at 0955, arriving in Shieldaig at 1040. Another Postbus then leaves Shieldaig at 1130 and arrives in Applecross at 1300, via the beautiful and winding coast road. No buses run over the Bealach na Ba. A Postbus leaves Applecross at 0915 and arrives in Shieldaig at 1010. It continues to Torridon (see below) and arrives at 1030. Another Postbus leaves Shieldaig at 1045 and arrives at Strathcarron train station at 1130. There are train connections from Strathcarron to Inverness and Kyle (for times Tel. 08457-484950).