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In 1741 the castle came into the possession of the Gray family – the lovely Lady Jane Gray is among their stock – and in 1822 the 15th Lord Gray, also the Earl of Moray, built the present castle. It remained with the Morays until its eventual sale in 1933, after which it became a centre for walkers.

The rooms have all been taken back to their original size – there were 32 when James Smith bought the castle around five years ago – and things are now very much as they would once have been. It was usual, says Nigel Liston, for these types of houses to contain the collections of seafaring men returning to Scotland, so the furnishings are probably entirely suitable. In fact, the place once had a strong Chinese influence, including a Chinese state room, and much of the furniture would have been Chinese Chippendale, made by an Edinburgh firm.

Nigel, a cabinet maker to trade, was initially brought in to help with the renovations – particularly the woodwork, which had become blackened over the years. Everyone did their bit to help with such tasks as the gold leafing on the ceiling, most of which is the work of Julia Smith.

There is much else to see – including the seven huge carved marble fireplaces in the public rooms and the wood-panelled ceiling in the dining room, painted with coats of arms connected with the ladies and mistresses of the lords Gray. The entrance vestibule is lighted with stained glass and draped with six tartan flags depicting the families who lived here, as well as the Black Watch, billeted in the castle during the Second World War, and Kinfauns itself (a Kinfauns Castle tartan was specially commissioned by the Smiths). Lady Gray’s Room, detailed in the 1820 plans of architect Robert Smirkes, is now a private dining room retaining its original white marble fireplace and its William Morris machine-painted wallpaper dating from 1910.

Later, I find myself sipping pre-dinner Chardonnay in the Dragon Boat Lounge – the dragon in question came from the Hilton in Taipei – and I think that there is absolutely nothing out of place here. It is the kind of renovation that seems almost unplanned. It takes great taste indeed to effect something so truly fitting.

If you ever get beyond trying to comprehend the history of the place, or just soaking up the atmosphere and the excellent cuisine, you can indulge in hill walking, horse riding, golf and archery in the surrounding area. And if you’re not staying in the hotel, it’s worth coming for afternoon tea just to get a sense of place, a little Far East magic and a smell of the past.

If you’re lucky, you might even catch the scent of Lady Jane Gray. As I leave, I’m pretty sure I do.

Now meet head chef Jeremy Wares and join Melanie Henderson for dinner in the Library Restaurant.

Contact: Kinfauns Castle
Near Perth
Scotland
PH2 7JZ
Tel: (01738) 620 777
Fax: (01738) 620 778