Heights
Food in Scotland
Heights
Apex Hotel
31-35 Grassmarket
Edinburgh
0131 300 3456
At the Apex Hotel on the Grassmarket, in the Old Town of Edinburgh, there is a choice of two restaurants, depending on whether you want a lighter, casual meal in the Metro brasserie, downstairs on street level or, alternatively, enjoy a slightly more formal lunch or dinner at Heights, high up on the fifth floor, with its spectacular views of the Castle.
We were warmly welcomed at the door by a young French waitress who took our coats and showed us to a superb window seat with direct views across to the Castle rock.
With candles on each table, the lighting was subtle and subdued and perfect for that romantic dinner a deux or a stylish night out with family and friends.
The dining room is long and elegantly proportioned -the very fresh and contemporary design is based on a blend of soft violet, burgundy and rich creamy gold colours, with very comfortable seating for a leisurely meal.
There is a selection of two menus with an extremely reasonable three-course dinner menu at �15.50 with several choices per course. There is also the A la Carte menu, with a small but inventive selection, each dish exquisitely described in wonderful poetic terms such as Pan Fried Seabass, scented with sundried tomato tapenade and garnished with fresh langoustine.
I opted for this and it turned out to be as delicious as the words on the page - delicate and succulent. As a light starter I chose couscous bread with aubergine ragout and a get-your-taste-buds-going rocket salad.
My partner selected a light-as-air creamy carrot and leek flan, with humous and red onion salad followed by tender baked haddock in a coriander crumb with baby spinach and a lentil butter sauce, all blending together in a perfect combination of texture and flavour.
Both menus showed a very lively imagination by the chef with unusual mixtures of spices and vegetables which seemed to work well.
With Cajun chicken and vegetables al greco and Thai crab cake with ginger scented vegetables the emphasis is certainly on an intriguing international fusion of east and west cuisine.
You certainly won't suffer vertigo if you sample lunch or dinner at Heights - only a very satisfying feeling of being extremely well fed and watered.
And if you feel you cannot make the journey home, you can always book into the Apex hotel and stay a night or two with very reasonable special deals for weekend breaks.
~ Vivien Devlin
(8/3/01)
Read Vivien Devlin's review of the Metro brasserie