Globetrotting Haggis
GLOBETROTTING HAGGISHaggis may be regarded by many as the epitome of culinary Scottishness but it is increasingly appealing to international tastes.
Hilary McNally takes a look at the growing popularity of Scotlands most famous dish and tries her hand at a Burns-style poetic tribute.
TO A GLOBETROTTING HAGGIS
Fair fa your honest sonsie face
Great chieftain o the pudding race,
So many knifes and forks you grace,
A delicacy grand.
Youre loved now a oer the place
In many a far-off land.
Famed now from east to west,
North and south and a the rest,
From Africa to Budapest,
A dish beyond compare,
Worldwide diners are impressed
By your wondrous fare.
Burns night without haggis is a bit like Christmas without turkey or birthdays without a cake and candles. Mention one and the other immediately follows into our consciousness. So it is hardly surprising that as the Burns phenomenon rages on and the popularity of the Bards poetry keeps going strong, haggis is also showing no signs of going out of favour. And it is not just Scottish palates that are maintaining their love affair with the great chieftain o the pudding race.
Haggis has gone global! Firms specialising in making Scotlands national dish are enjoying rising international orders from all over the world. Celebrated haggis makers Macsween of Edinburgh has sent supplies as far afield as Uganda and Kuala Lumpar while Glenrothes firm Stahly Quality Products includes Japan, South Africa and Peru on its export list.
"We just get busier every year," said Jo Macsween. "We produce about 370 tonnes of haggis and about half of that is sold between St Andrews Day at the end of November and Burns night at the end of January. So this is our busiest time of year but we have also sold more haggis in the summer months than ever before.
"There is an increased interest in all things cultural and all things Scottish and, of course, Burns has never really gone out of fashion. His poetry is timeless and that is why he has done so well. When people phone us they dont just want haggis, they want to know about the poetry and the speeches and that is something we want to encourage. We sell the whole Burns package."
Ken Stahly agrees that haggis is now big business.
"For the past few years weve seen haggis sales increasing by 20% a year. We now sell a quarter of a million tins of haggis a year and around 15 percent of those are for export. The Scottish gift trade is still our major market but we are moving into other areas. We sell well in Canada and were now targeting the USA. Our haggis is also sold in Japan where it is served in bars as a snack."
Although Russia is possibly the country most noted for its Burns fervour outside Scotland, the biggest overseas market for both Macsween and Stahlys, is France.
"We do get enquiries from Russia and every Russian Ive ever spoken to has been able to quote Burns but we get most orders from France," said Jo Macsween. "We send three tonnes of haggis there and we now supply the Monoprix chain of supermarkets. We also supply specialist shops in Paris which used to just want Irish goods. Now there is a demand for anything Scottish.
"I think the auld alliance also has something to do with it and the fact many ex-pats live in France but another factor is that the French have a high appreciation for fine foods and our products are respected for being of a consistently high standard."
She added that while they are more than happy to supply haggis all over the globe, variations in importation rules in different countries means the company prefers those placing the orders to arrange shipment themselves.
"We can give advice but local knowledge is really what you need. Rules can change and it is better for the people on the ground to find out what they need to get the haggis through customs. There can be quite a lot of red tape," said Jo.
Ken Stahly is also no stranger to the bureaucracy to be negotiated in exporting fresh haggis.
"Three pallets of our fresh haggis got stuck in Canada once and we had to bring the whole lot back. 10,000 labels had to be written off and we had to start all over again! At this time of year we export fresh haggis but after Burns night it tends to just be tins we send out and it is a far smoother, easier process."
Despite the
difficulties it would seem that where there is a
will and an appetite there is a way and on Burns
night, in particular, haggis will be taking pride
of place on dinner tables all over the world.
Macsween of Edinburgh is based at Dryden
Road, Bilston Glen, Loanhead, Edinburgh, EH20
9LZ. (Tel: 0131 440 2555, Fax: 0131 440 2674).
Their web site is at www.macsween.com
Stahly
Quality Foods is based at Unit 9, Fife Food
Centre, Farraday Road, Southfield Industrial
Estate, Glenrothes. (Tel 01592 775533, Fax: 01592
775544). Their website is at www.houseofkenton.com
Find out more about Robert Burns including
Burns suppers and haggis on www.rabbie-burns.com