Glasgow South Side Sights

Glasgow's South Side spreads out south of the Clyde. It includes Gorbals, Shawlands, Simshill, Busby, Clarkston, Govan, Ibrox, Strathbungo, Cardonald, Mount Florida, Pollokshaws, Nitshill, Pollokshields, Battlefield, Langside, Govanhill, Crosshill, Cessnock, Mansewood, Arden, Darnley, Newlands, Deaconsbank, Mosspark, Kinning Park, Pollok, Croftfoot, Castlemilk, King's Park, Cathcart, Muirend and Barrhead, Giffnock, Thornliebank, Netherlee, and Newton Mearns in the East Renfrewshire council area. It also covers Cambuslang, East Kilbride, and Rutherglen in the South Lanarkshire council area.

South of the River Clyde is a part of Glasgow largely unknown to most visiting tourists, except for two of the city's most notable attractions, the Burrell Collection and Pollock House, both set in the sylvan surrounds of Pollock Country Park.

There are other reasons to venture south of the river, however, not least of these being to see Charles Rennie Mackintosh's House for an Art Lover in nearby Bellahouston Park. Further east is another stop on the Mackintosh trail, the Scotland Street School Museum of Education.

To the south, in Cathcart, is Holmwood House, Alexander 'Greek' Thomson's great architectural masterpiece. Other Thomson work is Walmer crescent in Cessnock, and his town house's beside Queens park.

The Burrell Collection

Three miles southwest of the city centre is Glasgow's top attraction and a must on any visit, the Burrell Collection, standing in the extensive wooded parklands of Pollock Country Park.

The magnificent collection contains some 8,500 art treasures, donated to the city in 1944 by the shipping magnate, William Burrell (1861-1958) who sold his shipping interests in order to devote the remainder of his life to collecting art.

He began collecting in the 1880s, and in 1917 bought Hutton Castle near Berwick-on-Tweed to house his collection.

There it stayed, until the modern, award-winning gallery was built with the £450,000 donated by Burrell for the purpose of displaying his hugely eclectic bequest. The building opened to the public in 1983.

The collection includes ancient Greek, Roman and Egyptian artefacts, a huge number of dazzling oriental art pieces, and numerous works of medieval and post-medieval European art, including tapestries, silverware, textiles, sculpture and exquisitely-lit stained glass.

There's also an impressive array of paintings by Rembrandt, Degas, Pissaro and Manet amongst many others.

The gallery is a stunning work of simplicity and thoughtful design, which allows the visitor to enjoy the vast collection to the full. The large, floor-to-ceiling windows afford sweeping views over the surrounding woodland and allow a flood of natural light to enhance the treasures on view.

Some sections of the gallery are reconstructions of rooms from Hutton Castle and incorporated into the structure are carved stone Romanesque doors.

There's also a café and restaurant on the lower ground floor.

Mon-Thu and Sat 1000-1700, Sun 1100-1700. Free. (Tel: 6497151), www.glasgow.gov.uk

Buses 45, 47 and 57 from the city centre (Union St) pass the park gates on Pollockshaws Rd.

From the gates it's a 10-min walk to the gallery, or there's a twice hourly bus service. There are also regular trains from Central station to Pollockshaws West station.

A taxi from the city centre costs £6-7.

 

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House for an Art Lover

A short distance north of Pollock Park is Bellahouston Park, site of the most recent addition to the Charles Rennie Mackintosh trail, the House for an Art Lover.

Although the building was designed in 1901 as an entry to a competition run by a German design magazine, it was not completed until 1996, when it became a centre for Glasgow School of Art postgraduate students, though a number of rooms on the lower floor are open to the public.

Mackintosh worked closely with his wife on the design of the house and there is distinctive evidence of her influence, especially in the exquisite Music Room with its elaborate symbolism, particularly the rose motif, which is used throughout.

But though the detail is, as ever, intense, the overall effect is one of space and light. The exterior of the house is equally impressive and totally original.

Apr-Sep Sun-Thu 1000-1600, Sat 1000-1500; Oct-Mar Sat 1000-1500, Sun 1000-1600; call for weekday access times (Tel: 3534449). £3.50, £2.50 concession. (Tel: 3534770).

To get there take the Underground to Ibrox station and walk (15 minutes), or bus 91 from Hope St.

Scotland Street School Museum of Education

Directly opposite Shields Road Underground is another of Charles Rennie Mackintosh's great works, the Scotland Street School, which opened in 1906 and closed in 1979.

The entire school has been preserved as a museum of education and is a wonderfully evocative experience. There's a fascinating collection of school memorabilia and reconstructed classrooms from Victorian times up to the 1960s, as well as changing rooms, science room and headmaster's office (straighten your tie and comb your hair before entering).

This was the most modern of Mackintosh's buildings and is notable for its semi-cylindrical glass stair towers, the magnificent tiled entrance hall and his customary mastery of the interplay of light and space.

There's also a café, but don't worry, they don't serve authentic school food.

Mon-Thu 1000-1700, Fri-Sun 1100-1700. Free. (Tel: 2870500).

Underground to Shields Rd, or buses 89, 90, 96 and 97 from the city centre.

East of Pollock Park

To the east of Pollock Country Park, by Pollockshaws Road, is Queen's Park, named after Mary, Queen of Scots, whose reign ended after defeat here, at the Battle of Langside, in 1568.

A memorial outside the park marks the site of the battle. It's a pleasant place for a stroll and the views north across the city make it even more enjoyable.

Close by, in Mount Florida, is Hampden Park, home of Scottish football and now also the home of the new Scottish National Football Museum, which describes the history of the game in Scotland.

This may strike some as a rather masochistic idea given some of the more infamous and embarrassing episodes, but there have been highs (Wembley '67 and '77) as well as lows (Wembley '66 and Argentina '78).

Mon-Sat 1000-1700, Sun 1100-1700. £5, £2.50 concession.Tour of the stadium £2.50. (Tel: 6166100), www.scottishfootballmuseum.org.uk

Regular trains to Mount Florida station from Central station (turn left out of station and head straight downhill till you see the stadium; there are no signs.Buses 5, 12, 31, 37 or 44A.

Holmwood House

South of Queens Park and Hampden, at 61-63 Netherlee Road in Cathcart, is Holmwood House, designed by Alexander "Greek" Thomson, Glasgow's greatest Victorian architect.

Holmwood was built for James Couper, a paper manufacturer, between 1857 and 1858 and is the most elaborate and sumptuously decorated of all the villas Thomson designed for well-to-do industrialists on the outskirts of Glasgow.

It was rescued from decline by the National Trust for Scotland in 1994 and is well worth a visit.

The building is a work of genuine originality and has become a monument of international importance, as Thomson was the first modern architect to apply a Greek style to a free, asymmetrical composition.

The house also includes features reminiscent of Frank Lloyd Wright, which pre-date the great American architect by some forty years. Thomson designed everything in the house and conservation work is revealing very beautiful and elaborate stencilled decoration and friezes with Greek motifs.

The best description of Holmwood comes from Thomas Gildard who wrote in 1888: "If architecture be poetry in stone-and-lime - a great temple an epic - this exquisite little gem, at once classic and picturesque, is as complete, self-contained and polished as a sonnet".

Easter-31 Oct, daily 1330-1730, but access may be restricted at certain times; phone in advance. £2.40, £1.60 child/concession. (Tel: 6372129).

Trains every 30 mins to Cathcart from Central station, or take buses 44 and 46 from the city centre to Cathcart bridge, turn left onto Rannon Rd and walk 10 mins to gates.

Along the Clyde

After all the years of neglect, it is good to see that Glasgow's newest, most dazzling development is to be found on the Clyde.

The £75 million Glasgow Science Centre, 50 Pacific Quay, opened late in 2001 on the south side of the Clyde on the former garden festival site.

This enormous complex aims to demystify science, bringing it life with imaginative displays and interactive exhibits covering everything from the human body to the internet.

Make time to visit the Glasgow Tower too, which is the tallest free standing building in Scotland at 300 ft.

Each of its floors has a theme and takes a serious look at aspects of science, from the basic rules of nature to cloning and genetic modification. At the top there's a viewing cabin and great views over Glasgow and the Clyde.

The Centre also contains an IMAX theatre.

Science Mall daily 1000-1800; Glasgow Tower Sun-Wed 1000-1800, Thu-Sat 1000-2100; IMAX Theatre Sun-Wed 1100-1700, Thu-Sat 1000-2030 (hours subject to change).

Science Mall £6.50, £4.50 concession, family available; IMAX or Glasgow Tower £5.50, £4 concession, family available; discounts available.

If you purchase tickets to more than 1 attraction. (Tel: 4205010), www.gsc.org.uk

Opposite the Science Centre is the Scottish Exhibition and Conference Centre (SECC), built in 1987 on the site of the former Queen's Dock and now the country's premier rock and pop venue.

Next door is the controversial Clyde Auditorium, known locally as the 'Armadillo', which was designed by Sir Norman Foster and built in 1997.

Further west, also on the north bank of the Clyde, is a romantic looking sailing ship, the SS Glenlee - otherwise known as the Tall Ship at Glasgow Harbour, 100 Stobcross Road.

Launched in 1896, this three masted ship was built on the Clyde and is one of only five Clyde-built sailing ships that remain afloat in the world.

The tour offers a vivid insight into the daily lives of the sailors and the conditions on board ship in 1896.

Daily 1000-1700, £4.50, £3.95 concession. (Tel: 3390631), www.glenlee.co.uk

Further west still, at Braehead, is 'Clydebuilt', a museum charting the close relationship between Glasgow and the Clyde.

There's an audio-visual presentation on the history of shipbuilding and displays on a whole range of themes related to the river, from the cotton and tobacco trades, to emigration and immigration.

There are also plenty of 'hands-on' activities for kids and temporary exhibitions throughout the year.

Clydebuilt is at junction 25a (westbound) off the M8 or can be reached on the Clyde waterbus (Tel: 8861013)

Mon-Sat 1000-1800, Sun 1100-1700, £3.50, £1.75 concession.

Trips along the Clyde

At Anderston Quay, east of the Science Centre, is The Waverley, the world's last ocean going paddle steamer and one of a former fleet of pleasure boats that used to take Glaswegians on trips 'doon the watter' to Clyde coast resorts.

She has now had a £4 million refit and has been restored to her original glory. You can take still take day trips on the Waverley along the Clyde to destinations like Dunnoon, Largs, the Kyles of Bute and Arran.

Sailings take place from Easter-mid May and from Jun to late Aug, Fri-Mon. (Tel: 2218152), www.waverleyexcusions.co.uk Office open summer Mon-Sat 0900-1700, winter Mon-Fri 0900-1700.

Trips range from £10-30.

Next to the Tall Ship is Seaforce, a company offering high speed powerboat trips along the Clyde. Trips range from a 15 minute 'taster' (£2.50, £1.50 concession) to a four hour trip to the village of Kilcreggan (includes a chance to visit the village) £30, £15 concession.

There's also a mystery tour which goes to, well, it's a surprise.

Apr-Sep daily 1300-dusk, Oct-Mar trips can be booked. Office hours 0800-2200. (Tel: 4007737), www.seaforce.co.uk.

The Clyde Waterbus, Pride of the Clyde, is a river taxi that runs along the Clyde between Broomielaw and Braehead (where there is the large Braehead shopping centre and Clydebuilt maritime museum).

Trips go about every 90 mins and include a commentary on the history of the river. (Tel: 7786635)

Services run Mon-Fri from 1045-1815, Sat from 0945, Sun from 1145. £3

The most unusual tour must be that offered by glasgowDucks.

This company have several brightly coloured amphibious vehicles that take you through the city and along the Clyde. Tours last 90 minutes and start at Pacific Quay, by the Science Centre.

The commentary gives you an insight into the shipbuilding industry on the Clyde and takes you past the last private shipyard on the river.

Tours operate at Easter holidays and from Jun-Oct, weekends only Nov, Dec. £11.50, £8.50 children, booking recommended. Tel: 5728381 (bookings T0870-0136140), www.glasgowducks.com

Clyde Walkway

The Clyde Walkway is a 40-mile walking route which is being developed to link the centre of Glasgow to the Falls of Clyde at Lanark, via the Clyde Valley .

Sections of the waterfront walk are still rather empty and depressing but the central part, between Victoria Bridge and the SECC, is interesting and takes in some of the more distinguished bridges and much of Glasgow's proud maritime heritage.

Start the walk at Victoria Bridge, built in 1854 to replace the 14th century Old Glasgow Bridge, and continue past the graceful Suspension Bridge, built in 1851 as a grand entrance to the 'new town' on the south bank.

You can cross from here to Carlton Place, whose impressive Georgian façades have been restored and which were designed to front the never-completed 'new town'.

Back on the north bank is Customs House Quay and, further west beyond George V Bridge, Broomielaw Quay. From here, Henry Bell's Comet inaugurated the world's first commercial passenger steamboat service.

This was also the departure point for many Scottish emigrants to North America, and, later, for thousands of holidaying locals heading "doon the watter" to the Firth of Clyde seaside resorts.

Further west, at Anderston Quay, is the P.S. Waverley Terminal.

Between here and the SECC is the huge 175ft high Finnieston Crane, which was once used for lifting railway locomotives at a time when Glasgow was the largest builder of these in the world outside North America.

Close by is the Rotunda (1890-96) which was once the northern terminal of the complex of tunnels which took horse-traffic and pedestrians under the river, until the building of a new road tunnel in the 1960s.

The Rotunda has been restored as a restaurant complex. Soon you come to the Scottish Exhibition and Conference Centre (SECC) and the Clyde Auditorium (the "Armadillo"), sitting opposite the new Glasgow Science Centre.