Cuillins
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The Cuillins and Minginish on Skye
The district of Minginish is the wildest and least-populated part of the isle of Skye, but for many it is the greatest attraction, for this is where the Cuillins are to be found. This hugely impressive mountain range, often shrouded in rain or cloud, is the spiritual heartland of the island, and when it's clear their heart-aching grandeur can be appreciated from every other peninsula on Skye.Though officially called the Cuillin 'Hills', these are the most untamed mountains in Britain. The magnificent scenery and vast range of walks and scrambles have attracted climbers and walkers for centuries, but have also claimed many lives. It cannot be stressed too strongly that the Cuillins are the most dangerous mountains in Britain and only for experienced climbers.
There are three routes into the Cuillins: from the Sligachan Hotel; from Glen Brittle; and from Elgol. The eastern part of the range is known as the Red Cuillins. Their smoother, conical granite peaks contrast sharply with the older, darker gabbro of the jagged-edged Black Cuillins to the west. The latter are particularly suitable for rock climbing and best approached from Glen Brittle, while the former are accessed from the Sligachan Hotel. There are 20 'Munros' (mountains over 3,000 ft in height) in the Cuillins, with the highest being Sgurr Alasdair, at 3,251 ft. Though the sheer majesty of the mountains can only be appreciated at close quarters by the climber, there are impressive views from Elgol, from the road into Glen Brittle and, more distantly, from the west coast of Sleat.
Glen Sligachan is one of the most popular routes into the Cuillin range and the main access point for the more forgiving Red Cuillins, the walk to Loch Coruisk, or the ascent of Marsco. Every year there's a hill race up nearby Glamaig, which was climbed in 55 minutes (up and down) in 1899 by a Gurkha soldier - in bare feet!
OS Landranger No 32 OS Outdoor Leisure No 8
Guides and equipment
The following guides have all been recommended. Skye Highs, Mike Lates, 3 Luib, Broadford, Tel. 01471-822116. Cuillin Guides, Gerry Achroyd, Stac Lee, Glen Brittle, Tel. 01478-640289. Hugh Evans, 4d Wentworth St, Portree, Tel. 01478-612682. Richard MacGuire, 4 Matheson Place, Portree, Tel. 01478-613180. Colin Threlfall, at Outdoor Sports (see below). Two good shops for mountain gear are Cioch Direct, 4 Ullinish, Struan, Tel. 01470-572307, and Outdoor Sports; on Bridge Road (next to Skye Batiks), Portree
Sleeping and eating
The legendary rallying point for climbers who come to Skye for the Cuillins is the Sligachan Hotel, 7 miles south of Portree, where the A87 Kyleakin-Portree road meets the A863 to Dunvegan, Tel. 01471-8650204, Fax. 650207. The hotel's Seamus bar stocks an impressive selection of malts and also serves the island's real ales as well as meals. The campsite opposite is the most popular place to stay in the area.
Elgol
One of the most rewarding drives on Skye is the 14-mile single-track road from Broadford to Elgol (Ealaghol), a tiny settlement near the tip of the Strathaird Peninsula, from where you can enjoy the classic view of the Cuillins from across Loch Scavaig and of the islands of Soay, Rùm and Canna. It was from here, on 4 July 1746, that the Young Pretender finally left the Hebrides. Before leaving, he was given a farewell banquet by the MacKinnons in what is now called Prince Charlie's Cave. There's also the added attraction of a dramatic boat trip to the mouth of Loch Coruisk, in the heart of the Black Cuillin. The glacial sea loch, romanticized by Walter Scott and painted by Turner, is over two miles long but only a few hundred yards wide, closed in by the sheer cliffs on either side and overshadowed by the towering mountains of black basalt and gabbro. Elgol is also the starting point for the walk to Camasunary. The road to Elgol also gives great views of Bla Bheinn (pronounced Blaven), best seen from Torrin, at the head of Loch Slapin.
Phone code: +44 (0)1471
Transport
The only public transport is the Postbus from Broadford, which runs twice Mon-Sat and once on Sun, and takes 2 hrs. For details of boat trips on the Bella<$]MI> Jane, Tel. 866244; to book Tel. 0800- 7313089 (freephone). Return boat trips take 3 hrs, including about 1€ hrs ashore. You should be able to see seals and porpoises en route. There's also a one-way trip for experienced walkers/climbers who wish to make the return journey on foot or to explore the Cuillins. There are also trips on the Nicola, Tel. 866236. Trips to Rùm or Canna.
Sleeping
There are several B&Bs in Elgol, but a more attractive option is Rowan Cottage, Tel./Fax. 866287, www.rowncott.demon.co.uk Open Apr-Nov, a mile east at Glasnakille.
Glen Brittle
Six miles along the A863 to Dunvegan from Sligachan is a turning left to Portnalong, Carbost and the Talisker Distillery (B8009), which soon leads to the entrance to Glen Brittle. The road down Glen Brittle affords great views of the western side of the imposing Black Cuillins, until it ends at the campsite and shore at the foot of the glen. From Glen Brittle there are numerous paths leading up to the corries of the Black Cuillins. There are many alternative options for those wishing to continue up to the upper corries or to the Main Ridge. One of the finest of the Cuillin corries is Coire Lagan. This walk starts from the beach at Glen Brittle village and takes you up to the lochan in the upper coire, with Sgurr Alasdair, the most difficult of the Munros, towering overhead. A fine Cuillin sampler is the short walk to the spectacular Eas Mor waterfall.
Phone code: +44 (0)1478
Transport
There are 2 daily buses from Portree to Glen Brittle Mon-Sat during the summer only. Otherwise, take the Portree-Carbost-Fiscavaig bus, which leaves twice Mon-Fri and once on Sat, and get off at the turn-off, then walk the remaining 7 miles, or hitch, though it can be slow.
Sleeping
Apart from the campsite by the shore, Tel. 640404, the only accommodation is at the SYHA Hostel, Tel. 640278, in the village. It's open mid-Mar to end of Oct and has 39 beds.
Talisker
A recommended trip for whisky drinkers, or if it's raining, is to the Talisker Distillery, at Carbost on the shores of Loch Harport, on the B8009 (not in the village of Talisker itself, which is on the west coast). This is Skye's only whisky distillery and produces a very smoky, peaty single malt. The informative tours last around 20-30 minutes and begin with a complimentary dram. Info - Apr-Jun Mon-Fri 0900-1630; Jul-Sep Mon-Sat 0900-1630; Oct Mon-Fri 0900-1630; Nov-Mar Mon-Fri 1400-1630. Tel. 614308, Fax. 640401, large groups need to book in advance.
Near the distillery is Carbostcraft Pottery, which produces a wide range of traditional and original pottery, including the famous 'torn pots'. It's open Monday-Saturday 0900-1700 from February-December (also Sunday in summer). Tel. 640259. They also have a shop in Portree.
Phone code: +44 (0)1478
Sleeping
There are a few places to stay in and around Carbost. Further west, in the village of Talisker, is Talisker House, Tel. 640245, Fax. 640214, jon_and_ros.wathen@ virgin.net 4 rooms. This excellent guesthouse makes an ideal retreat from the summer hordes, and serves fine food.
North of Carbost, near Portnalong, are 2 hostels. Croft Bunkhouse & Bothies, Tel./Fax. 640254, pete@skyehostel.free-online.co.uk Sleeps 26. Also room for camping, transport from Sligachan or Portree, rents mountain bikes, pub and shop nearby. Skyewalker Independent Hostel, Tel. 640250, Fax. 640420, brian@skyewalkerhostel.com In a converted school beyond Portnalong on the road to Fiscavaig. 32 beds. The Skyewalker website [1] allows you to book online. The new management have made this hostel a great success with fantastic reviews.