Loch Assynt

Loch Assynt & Inchnadamph

The area east of Lochinver is a remote wilderness of mountains and moorland dotted with lochs and lochans. As well as being a favourite haunt of hardy climbers and walkers, Assynt is a paradise for anglers. Most of the lochs are teeming with brown trout, and fishing permits are readily available throughout the area from the TIC in Lochinver or at local hotels, guesthouses and B&Bs. There's also salmon fishing on the River Kirkaig, available through the Inver Lodge Hotel, and on Loch Assynt through the Inchnadamph Hotel.

The A837 Lochinver-Lairg road meets the A894 to Durness 10 miles east of Lochinver at Skiag Bridge by Loch Assynt. Half a mile south of here, by the loch, are the ruins of Ardvreck Castle. The castle dates from 1597 and was the stronghold of the Macleods of Assynt until a siege of the castle in 1691, when it was taken by the Seaforth Mackenzies. Before that, the Marquis of Montrose had been imprisoned here following his defeat at Carbisdale in 1650. Access to the castle is free, but the ruins are in a dangerous state and should be approached with care.

To the east of the road lies the Inchnadamph National Nature Reserve, dominated by the massive peaks of Ben More Assynt and Conival, which should only be attempted by experienced hill walkers. A few miles south of the village of Inchnadamph, at the fish farm, is a steep, but well-marked footpath up to the Bone Caves. This is one of Scotland's oldest historical sites, where the bones of humans and animals such as lynx and bear were found together with sawn-off deer antlers dating from over 8,000 years ago. Phone code: +44 (0)1571

Sleeping

Inchnadamph Hotel, Tel. 822202, inchnadamphhotel@assynt99.freeserve. co.uk An old-fashioned Highland hotel on the shores of Loch Assynt, catering for the hunting and fishing fraternity (see above). Nearby is the Inchnadamph Lodge, Tel. 822218, assynt@presence.co.uk, or Assynt Field Centre, which offers basic hostel accommodation in bunk rooms, as well as twin, double and family rooms. Continental breakfast is included. It's open all year, but phone ahead between Nov and Mar. It's ideally situated for climbing Ben More Assynt and guides are available.

Lochinver to Kylesku: the coast road

The quickest way north from Lochinver is the A837 east to the junction with the A894 which heads to Kylesku. But by far the most scenic route is the B869 coast road that passes moorland, lochs and beautiful sandy bays. It's best travelled from north to south, giving you the most fantastic views of Suilven. Untypically, most of the land in this part of Assynt is owned by local crofters who, under the aegis of the Assynt Crofters' Trust, bought 21,000 acres of the North Assynt Estate, thus setting a precedent for change in the history of land ownership in the Highlands.

The trust now owns the fishing rights to the area and sells permits through local post offices and the tourist office in Lochinver. It has also undertaken a number of conservation projects, including one at Achmelvich, a few miles north of Lochinver, at the end of a side road which branches off the coast road. It's worth a detour to see one of the loveliest beaches on the west coast, with sparkling white sand and clear turquoise sea straight out of a Caribbean tourist brochure. You can stay here, at the SYHA Hostel, Tel. 844480, open mid-May to early October; or camp at the Shore Caravan Site, Tel. 844393, open April-September.

From the beach car park below the hostel a path leads northwest along the coast. Bear left off the sandy path shortly after the white cottage on the hill ahead comes into view, and follow the footpath until the road is reached at Alltan na Bradhan, where there are the remains of an old meal mill. Continue north from here along the coast for about a mile till you reach a small bay just before Clachtoll, the Split Rock. Close by are the remains of an Iron-Age Broch, but don't cause further damage by clambering over the ruins. Return to the beach by the same path. The walk there and back should take about 1 1/2 hours.

Kylesku

Phone code: +44 (0)1971

The road runs east from Drumbeg, under the shadow of towering Quinag (2,654 ft), to meet the A894 heading north to Kylesku, site of the sweeping modern road bridge over Loch a'Cháirn Bháin. From Kylesku you can visit Britain's highest waterfall, the 650-ft high Eas a'Chùal Aluinn, near the head of Loch Glencoul. Cruises leave from the old ferry jetty below the Kylesku Hotel to the falls on board the MV Statesman, Tel. 01571-844446. You can also see porpoises, seals and minke whales en route. You may be able to get closer to the falls by getting off the boat and walking to the bottom, then getting on the next boat. Info - The 2-hr round trip runs Apr-Sep daily at 1100 and 1400 (Jul and Aug also at 1600), and costs £9, children £3.

There's also a trail to the top of the falls. It starts at the south end of Loch na Gainmhich, about three miles north of Skiag Bridge. Skirting the loch, follow the track in a southeasterly direction up to the head of the Bealach a Bhuirich (the Roaring Pass). Continue until you meet a stream, with several small lochans on your right. Follow this stream until it plunges over the Cliffs of Dubh (the Dark Cliffs). You can get a better view of the falls by walking to the right about 100 yards and descending a heather slope for a short distance. Allow about three to four hours for the round trip.

Sleeping and eating in Kylesku

Before you leave on the boat trip, pop into the Kylesku Hotel, Tel. 502231, for some delicious and great-value pub seafood, or for B&B, open Mar-Oct. There's also a more formal and expensive restaurant next door. If you want to spend the night here, a cheaper option is the Newton Lodge, Tel./Fax. 502070, newtonlge@aol.com, open mid-Mar to mid-Oct. There's also a small hostel at Kylesku Lodges, Tel. 502003, open Easter-Oct.

Scourie & Handa Island

Ten miles north of Kylesku is the little crofting community of Scourie, sitting above a sandy bay. Anyone remotely interested in wildlife is strongly advised to make a stop here to visit Handa Island, a sea bird reserve run by the Scottish Wildlife Trust, and one of the best places in the country for bird life. The island is now deserted, except for the warden, but once supported a thriving community of crofters, until the potato famine of 1846 forced them to leave, most emigrating to Canada's Cape Breton. Now it's home to huge colonies of shags, fulmars, razorbills, guillemots and puffins. The best time to visit is during the summer breeding season, from late May to August. There's a footpath right round the island, which is detailed in the free SWT leaflet available at the warden's office when you arrive. You should allow three to four hours. There's a ferry service to the island from Tarbet Beach, three miles northwest off the A894, about three miles north of Scourie. It sails continuously, depending on demand. Info - Apr-Sep Mon-Sat 0930-1700. It's a 15-min crossing. Tel. 502077.

Another excellent wildlife boat trip leaves from Fanagmore, a mile from Tarbet on the other side of the peninsula, with Laxford Cruises, Tel. 502251. They sail around beautiful Loch Laxford, where you can see lots of birds from nearby Handa Island, as well as seals, porpoises and otters. Info - Trips leave Easter till the end of Sep daily except Sun at 1000, 1200 and 1400 (also at 1600 in Jul and Aug). The trips last 1 hr 45 mins.

For bookings contact Julian Pearce, who also runs the wonderful Seafood Restaurant (mid-range) just above the jetty at Tarbet. If you're up this way, don't miss a visit to this restaurant which serves seafood caught by Julian during his boat trips! It's a great place and you can even stay here, in the self-catering caravan next door, which sleeps up to six.

Phone code: +44 (0)1971

Sleeping and eating

There is lots of accommodation in and around Scourie. Best of all is the Eddrachilles Hotel, a few miles south in Badcall Bay, Tel. 502080, Fax. 502477, eddrachilles@ compuserve.com 11 rooms, open Mar-Oct, this is one of the most magnificently situated hotels in the country. The 200 year-old building stands in 300 acres of grounds overlooking the bay, the food on offer is superb, though the atmosphere is a little stuffy (their Eddrachilles heel, you might say). Another excellent place to eat is the Scourie Hotel, Tel. 502396, www.scourie-hotel.co.uk, open 1 Apr-mid-Oct, a 17th-century former coaching inn popular with anglers (lunch mid-range; dinner expensive). There are several B&Bs in the village, but none better than the welcoming Scourie Lodge, Tel. 502248, open Mar-Oct, which also does good evening meals. There's a campsite, Tel. 502060, on Harbour Rd.

Transport

There's a Postbus service to Scourie from Durness and Lairg once a day, Mon-Sat. It leaves Durness at 0820 and arrives at 0935 and continues to Lairg. It returns at 1245 and arrives at 1420. There's also a Postbus service between Scourie and Elphin, with connections to Lochinver.

Kinlochbervie & around

The road north from Scourie passes Laxford Bridge, where it meets the A838 running southeast to Lairg. The A838 also runs north to Durness, on the north coast (see below). At Rhiconich, the B801 branches northwest to Kinlochbervie, a small village with a very big fish market. This is one of the west coast's major fishing ports, and huge container lorries thunder along the narrow single-track roads carrying frozen fish and seafood to all corners of Europe. It's worth heading down to the fish market in the evenings to see the day's catch being landed and sold.

A few miles beyond Kinlochbervie is Oldshoremore, a tiny crofters' village scattered around a stunning white beach, and a great place to swim. The less hardy can instead explore the hidden rocky coves nearby.

At the end of the road is Blairmore, from where a footpath leads to Sandwood Bay, the most stunning and beautiful beach on the west coast. It's a long walk, but because of its isolation you'll probably have this glorious mile-long stretch of white sand all to yourself. The beach is flanked at one end by a spectacular rock pinnacle and is said to be haunted by the ghost of an ancient shipwrecked mariner. Allow three hours for the walk there and back, plus time at the beach. You could take a tent and watch the sunset. Sandwood Bay can also be reached from Cape Wrath, a day's hike to the north.

Phone code: +44 (0)1971

Sleeping

In Kinlochbervie village is The Kinlochbervie Hotel, Tel. 521275, Fax. 521438, klbhotel@ aol.com A nicer place to stay is the Old School Hotel, Tel./Fax. 521383, www.host.co.uk, halfway between Kinlochbervie and the A838 at Rhiconich. It used to be a school, as the name implies, and this only adds to the charm. They also serve great food at mid-range prices, daily 1200-1400 and 1800-2000. In Rhiconich is the Rhiconich Hotel, Tel. 521224, rhiconichhotel@compuserve.com; and also B&B at E Benview, Tel. 521242, open Apr-Sep. There's a good campsite at Oldshoremore, Tel. 521281.

Transport

A Postbus leaves Kinlochbervie harbour at 0900 and goes to Scourie (35 mins) and on to Lairg (1 hr 50 mins) from where there are connections to Inverness. The same postbus returns from Lairg at 1245, arrives in Kinlochbervie at 1448, then continues to Durness (35 mins).

TravelScotland