Monarch of the Glen Country, Badenoch and
LIVING AS MONARCH OF THE GLEN
Pic:
Ardverikie House
The popular TV series Monarch of the Glen may have finished its
current run but visitors to Scotland can still capture the beauty
of the countryside as seen on screen with a trip to Badenoch and
Strathspey according to Gilbert Summers.
No matter the romantic interest and all the emotional undercurrents as the young laird Archie Mcdonald wrestles the Glenbogle estate into the 21st century, it takes a pretty unobservant viewer not to be distracted by the setting of Monarch of the Glen. The backdrop of mountains as well as that particularly vivid Highland green of high summer pasture, blaeberry and pine - so green you can almost smell it on screen - are the very essence of the Highlands.
Add a glimpse of an osprey diving (as seen in the first series) and you have just the tiniest clue for a more specific location. Scotland's saoring fish-hawk is very much a symbol of one particular area and one of its best known annual visitors. Glenbogle is very firmly set in Badenoch and Strathspey, not far from the main A9, Scotland's Highland road to Inverness and only 56 miles from Inverness Airport.
Badenoch referes to the heartlands of Highland Scotland from the source of the River Spey northwest to - and beyond - the ski centre and resort of Aviemore. The south side of Badenoch is bounded by the high granites of the Cairngorm mountains and the River Spey is very much at its centre. Near the little town of Kingussie, the valley is broad enough for the river to slow and widen in a great bowl of marsh and loch - the Insh Marshes, a Royal Society for the Protection of Birds nature reserve much frequented by ospreys.
On the north side of this area lie the rounded Monodhliath, a hill range and backdrop to many of Monarch of the Glen's outdoor scenes in this slice of life on a Highland estate. Both the cottage of the militant school teacher Katrina and the "big house" of the state are located close to Laggan.
The "strath" part of Strathspey in general means a wide valley. In this case now just with a river and loch overlooked by peaks on either side but also some of the finest stretches of the ancient woodland of Scotland. The old Caledonian pinewoods of Strathspey show the characteristic red branched Scots pine along with a natural underplanting of juniper and heather. Half hidden in this glorious natural environment is a superb choice of activities, many of them healthy and invigorating.
If you remember the first series, the Mackenzies' reluctant bank manager was taught to tickle trout. Admittedly this is not a very sporting way of catching fish - but for more conventional anglers, Badenoch and Strathspey offers some great days out, both on the Spey itself and on several lochs. In fact, angling is just the start of the sporting options on the water, thanks to watersport centres at Loch Insh and Loch Morlich.
There is easy fishing on stocked waters at the fish farm at Rothiemurchus Estate. Rothiemurchus Estate could easily be the model for young Archie in his hopes for "diversification". This is the place for visitors to glimpse the workings of a real life Highland estate, in one of the most spectacular settings in Scotland. Visitors can enjoy all kinds of activities on the estate grounds, from Landrover safaris, quality shopping, guided tours, clay pigeon shooting and fly fishing tuition in this grand setting of forest and hill.
Pic:
The Cairngorms
If
you prefer something a little more peaceful, then a good network
of forest trails can be tackled on foot or by bike. In fact both
in and around Rothiemurchus this whole area offers extensive walking,
hiking and full-scale mountaineering options. It all comes back
to the terrain again. Not only are there three miles of sheltered
open pinewood but for the fit and well equipped the high plateau
of the Cairngorms will beckon, offering whole day expeditions to
some of the highest tops in Britain at least ten of which reach
over 1,200 metres (around the old imperial 4,000ft mark).
Things to see and do in the Monarch of the Glen country should certainly include a walk to (or around) Loch an Eilein, in the heart of the Rothiemurchus estate. In olden days, osprey nested on the ruined walls of the island castle - now they most famously nest on the RSPB Loch Garten reserve where, thanks to a very well equipped visitor centre, you can peek into their domestic arrangements. Continuing on a birdy note, listen out for crested tits in the forest, the other speciality of the area. Make sure you have your binoculars. Apparently researchers have found these attractive birds only ever stray a few hundred yards from their birthplace. Obviously they appreciate that the old Caledonian pinewoods are perfect.
For more Highland wildlife, visit the Highland Wildlife Park. Bears and wolves once roamed these parts and today you can enjoy these lost inhabitants in a natural habitat along with animals still found in the area such as otters and wildcats, all in a grand setting close to the main A9. Another "must see" for children especially is the Landmark Highland Heritage Park at Carrbridge, again only minutes off the main route. This interpretation park with its treetop walkways, mazes, audio visuals and steam driven sawmill also features a set of water slides bigger than anywhere else for miles around. Beware they are very addictive - you'll keep wanting to have "just one more go."
Children (and dads!) should head for the Strathspey Railway running for five miles between Boat of Garten and Aviemore. This is one of the most scenic of Britain's preserved steam railways, with grand views to the Cairngorms. Adjacent to the line at Boat of Garten, travellers glimpse the peerless fairways of the Boat of Garten golf course. The birchwood setting is superb, the course itself subtle and testing - small wonder, as it was laid out in 1932 by James Braid the masterbuilder of many an old Scottish course.
The little village of Boat of Garten lies towards the north end of Badenoch. The Dalwhinnie Distillery is at the south - almost at the watershed by Drumochter, where railways in Britain reach their highest point. Dalwhinnie Distillery shares this characteristic - it is the highest in Britain - as the tour guides will tell you as they share some of the secrets of the malt.
Finally, it would be misleading to give the impression that the Monarch of the Glen country is miles from any town. Aviemore has a good range of shops, eating and drinking places - plus a "let your hair down" atmosphere with an après ski lifestyle guaranteed to give the party animals a headache on the slopes the next morning! Grantown on Spey is quieter, a handsome granite town with a good shopping choice. Carrbridge, Kingussie and Newtonmore are slightly smaller communities, with their own small town charm, well geared for visitors with a wide accommodation choice. Kingussie's big attraction is the fascinating Highland Folk Museum with its reconstructed Highland dwellings, authentic artefacts, as well as a wide ranging events programme.
Also close to Kingussie is the historic ruin of Ruthven Barracks, set aflame by the Jacobites under Bonnie Prince Charlie in 1746. Perhaps the Mackenzies of Glenbogle fought for the prince's cause. More than likely Sir Hector's ancestors kept their heads down - and so kept the estate with all its potential for the dashing young laird to take over today. Whatever the outcome, Archie knows that the essential ingredients of scenery on a grand scale, plus a whole range of things to do, both on and off the estate, should be the recipe for success - just as in real life here in the heart of the Highlands.
SEE THE FACTSHEET FOR MONARCH OF THE GLEN COUNTRY
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